Crochet Monkey Pattern: Free Amigurumi Monkey

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.

Note: Ch 7. Make a slip knot, then chain 7. That little chain forms the oval's spine, you'll work your crochet all around it.

Note: Slip stitch in the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it goes on the head as you make it, right before the eyes go in.

Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. This piece works up flat: along that chain you crochet back and forth in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.

Note: Leave a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), when you snip the yarn for sewing, then draw it through the final loop. Put it to one side: as you work, it sits on the head, right before the eyes are added.

Note: Ch 9. Start with a slip knot, then make 9 chains. That little chain forms the oval's spine, you'll work around the whole thing.

Note: Slip stitch in the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it goes on the head as you make it, right before the eyes go in.

Note: Eye time, start with the face. Grab the upper face patch, hairline peak, and muzzle patch you made before. Pin the upper face patch at the front, in the middle, on round 13; the hairline peak at the front, in the middle, on round 17; and the muzzle patch at the front, in the middle, on round 7. Then push each safety eye through the muzzle patch, hairline peak, and upper face patch, into the head between round 17 and round 18, leaving 2 stitches between them. Take a look from far away, then snap the backs on inside: once they click, they stay forever. While you can still reach inside, sew around the edge of each upper face patch, hairline peak, and muzzle patch with its long tail, starting with the bottom one.

Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.

Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.

Note: Flatten the opening while lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 10 sc, one into each pair of stitches, so it closes in a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is where you'll sew the ear on.

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.

Note: Ch 3. Make a slip knot, then chain 3. That little chain is the backbone of the oval, you'll work all the way around it.

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.

Note: Switch colors! At the end of round 7, on that final stitch, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the brown yarn through. Keep going in brown starting with round 8. On the inside, loosely knot the two tails together.

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the leg on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing gently down to the end.

Note: Color switch! At the end of round 5, on that last stitch, pause when 2 loops are left on your hook, then pull the brown yarn through. From round 6 on, keep going with brown. On the inside, loosely knot the two tails together.

Note: Fill it just a bit, leave the end close to the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the arm on along this seam.

Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.

Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.