Meet your own little chubby baby dinosaur! Go slow, one piece at a time, and you'll be surprised at what your hands can do.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 7 in (17 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | Pea green, Cream, Orange, Peach, Dark chocolate, Green |
| Pieces | body, eye patch x2, head, snout, belly patch, arm x2, leg x2, tail, head spike x5, back spike, lowest spike |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- Pea green: about 93 yd (85 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Cream: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Orange: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Peach: a small scrap
- Dark chocolate: a small scrap
- Green: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 12 mm black safety eyes: 1
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
With this yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the dinosaur ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall: roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the dinosaur in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Dinosaur crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across, and you should have 48 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 9-14 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) deep, with 42 stitches going around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 17 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 18 | sc in each st around | (36) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 20 | sc in each st around | (30) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! You should now have an open piece that's about 3.3 in (8.3 cm) wide and 2.8 in (7.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Eye patch (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch in the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it goes on the head as you make it, right before the eyes go in.
Check: All set! Your eye patch is now a flat circle that measures about 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across, plus a long yarn tail.
Head
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, and it should measure around 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide, with 54 stitches going all the way around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 10-15 | sc in each st around | (54) |
Note: Eye time, first comes the face. Grab those eye patches you made before. On round 13, pin them, one on each side of the front. Then push every safety eye through its patch and into the head, between round 14 and round 15. Step back and take a look, then snap the backs on from inside: after they click, they're on for good. While you can still get your hand inside, use the long tail to sew around the edge of each patch.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 17 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 3.4 in (8.6 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) deep, with 48 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 18 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a plush shape that comes out around 3.5 in (8.8 cm) across and 2.6 in (6.7 cm) high, leaving a gap of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 23 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 24 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! Your head is now stuffed nice and firm and fully closed, and it should measure about 3.1 in (7.9 cm) tall and 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide.
Snout
Worked in pea green.
Note: Ch 7. Make a slip knot, then chain 7. That little chain forms the oval's spine, you'll work your crochet all around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 5, 3 sc in skipped ch | (16) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 5, inc x3, sc 5, inc x2 | (22) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 10, inc) x2 | (24) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch, then snip the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the snout on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it gently.
Check: All set! Your snout should be an open piece now, roughly 1.7 in (4.4 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, with a long yarn tail left over.
Belly patch
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a tiny flat oval, with 22 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (28) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 3, inc, sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x2 | (34) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 4, inc, sc 2, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 4, inc) x2 | (40) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Your belly patch is now a flat oval, roughly 2.6 in (6.7 cm) long and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide, and it has a long yarn tail.
Arm (make 2)
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 4, dec) x2 | (10) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep, with 10 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-8 | sc in each st around | (10) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the end close to the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from the two layers. Work across through both layers, 5 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the arm on.
Check: All set! Your arm is now a closed piece, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) long, with a straight seam along its end and a long yarn tail.
Leg (make 2)
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, and you should have 21 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-7 | sc in each st around | (21) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the leg on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing gently down to the end.
Check: All set! Your leg is now an open piece, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Tail
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 2, inc x2, sc 2 | (8) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 3, inc x2, sc 3 | (10) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 4, inc x2, sc 4 | (12) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 5, inc x2, sc 5 | (14) |
Check: What you want is an open cup roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide, 0.7 in (1.7 cm) deep, and 14 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 7 | sc 6, inc x2, sc 6 | (16) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 7, inc) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
| Rnd 10 | sc in each st around | (21) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) across and 1.5 in (3.9 cm) deep, with 21 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 11 | (sc 6, inc) x3 | (24) |
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 7, inc) x3 | (27) |
| Rnds 14-15 | sc in each st around | (27) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch. Then, leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and cut the yarn. You'll use it to sew the tail on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Your tail is now an open piece, roughly 1.9 in (4.9 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.5 cm) long, and you've got a long yarn tail.
Head spike (make 5)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x2, sc | (11) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the following stitch. Then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the head spike on. Fill it softly, nudging the stuffing down to the tip with the back of your hook.
Check: All set! Your head spike is now an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Back spike
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and you'll use it to sew the back spike on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: Great! At this point, your back spike ought to be an open piece around 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Lowest spike
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew on the lowest spike. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Now your lowest spike should be an open piece around 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, with a long tail of yarn.
Putting the dinosaur together
Once every piece is done, we can stitch them up and see your dinosaur take shape.
1. Attach the snout
At round 10, put it on the head, front and center. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the head. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the snout, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done.
2. Attach the head spikes
They go right on the end of the head (its last round, 24), centered. Pin them all first so the gaps are even. For each one: hold the open edge flat against the head and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the head spike, then under the head right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing straight out.
3. Attach the head
Put it right on top of the body (its last round, 21), in the center. Hold the head's starting end (where the magic ring is) against the body, then sew around where they meet, going back and forth, and pull the yarn snug so there's no gap. It should point straight out when you're done.
4. Attach the belly patch
At round 11, put it on the front of the body, in the middle. Lay the flat belly patch flat onto the body with its long side going up, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the body underneath each stitch. It'll curve along the body, that's just what you want.
5. Attach the arms
At round 18, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Hold the straight seam against the body, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point out and down when you're done, about 70 degrees from straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, just mirrored.
6. Attach the legs
At round 6, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under a stitch of the leg, then under the body right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when done. Then mirror it and do the other one the same way on the opposite side.
7. Attach the tail
At round 8, put it on the body, middle of the back. Pin it all round, keeping the open edge flat on the body. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under a stitch of the tail, then under the body right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It ought to finish pointing straight out.
8. Attach the back spike
At round 18, in the middle of the back, put it on the body. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one stitch of the back spike, then under the body right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done.
9. Attach the lowest spike
At round 15, put it on the body, center back. Keep the open edge flat on the body, then pin all around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: go under one stitch of the bottom spike, then under the body right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a little more stuffing. When you're done, it ought to stick straight out.
10. Sew the cheeks
Around round 9, put peach yarn on the head, one on each side of the front. Here's how: one cheek is made by 2 short stitches side by side.
11. Sew the mouth
Using dark chocolate yarn, at the front, in the middle, around round 1, on the snout. Here's how: come up at a corner, go down 3 stitches over, then grab the middle of that long stitch and tug it down one round to shape a curve.
12. Sew the nostrils
With dark chocolate yarn on the snout, around round 2, one on each side of the front. How: make 4 or 5 stitches on top of each other over the same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
13. Sew the toe lines
With green yarn on the leg, around round 5, one on each side of the front. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
14. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You made it! Your little chubby dino is done and all set for a big hug.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is this crochet dinosaur?
Roughly 6.7 in (17 cm) tall when standing, made in DK (light worsted) cotton with a 3.5 mm hook. If you want a chunky dinosaur, just crochet those same rounds using bulky yarn and a larger hook: you'll get a bigger toy, and it works up faster.
Is this dinosaur pattern no-sew?
No. You make the head, body, tail, arms, and legs one at a time, then stitch them together. The snout, belly, eye whites, and orange spikes get sewn on too. Each sewing step comes with a picture showing where every piece goes.
Is this dinosaur hard to make?
It's a medium pattern. All you need is chains, a magic ring, single crochet, increases and decreases, yet there are eleven different pieces to make and sew together. Each round tells you its stitch count, so you can check along the way.
How big is the finished dinosaur?
With DK (light worsted) yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the dinosaur ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall. Use a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
Using DK (light worsted) cotton and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, in 6 colors: pea green, cream, orange, peach, dark chocolate, green. If you go up or down a hook size to keep your stitches tight, any yarn will work.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
