New to crochet? Great, this cute spotted cow is a wonderful first project. We'll take it one little part at a time, and before you know it, it'll start looking like a buddy.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 7 in (17 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | White, Black, Light pink, Cream, Pink |
| Pieces | body, eye patch, head, muzzle, ear x2, inner ear x2, horn x2, arm x2, leg x2, tail, front spot, toy's right, front spot, toy's left, side spot, upper back spot, lower back spot |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- White: about 104 yd (95 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Black: about 44 yd (40 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Light pink: About 12 yd (11 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Cream: a small scrap
- Pink: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 12 mm black safety eyes: 1
- 12 mm black safety eyes: 1
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
With this yarn, Cow ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall when you use a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook: roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Changing colors: clean lines between colors
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the cow in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Cow crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, and it should measure around 3.4 in (8.6 cm) wide, with 54 stitches going all the way around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 10-16 | sc in each st around | (54) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 3.4 in (8.6 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) deep, with 54 stitches going around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 17 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 18 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 20 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Now your body should be an open piece around 2.8 in (7 cm) long and 3.8 in (9.6 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Eye patch
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a tiny flat oval, with 22 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (28) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 3, inc, sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x2 | (34) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 4, inc, sc 2, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 4, inc) x2 | (40) |
Note: Slip stitch in the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it goes on the head as you make it, right before the eyes go in.
Check: All set! Now your eye patch ought to be a flat oval, roughly 2.6 in (6.7 cm) long and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail still attached.
Head
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Yours ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 3.7 in (9.5 cm) wide, with 60 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-17 | sc in each st around | (60) |
Note: Eye time, put the face on first. Grab that eye patch you made before. Pin it on round 15, at the front, slightly to the toy's right. Push each safety eye through the patch and into the head between round 16 and round 17. Check it from far away, then snap the backs on inside: once they click, they stay forever. While you can still get inside, sew around the edge of each eye patch with its long tail.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 18 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
Check: Your piece needs to look like an open cup, roughly 3.7 in (9.5 cm) across and 1.4 in (3.6 cm) deep, and you'll have 54 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 20 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed piece, around 3.8 in (9.7 cm) wide and 3 in (7.7 cm) tall, leaving an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 26 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 27 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your head is now stuffed nice and firm and closed up all the way, around 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Muzzle
Worked in light pink.
Note: Ch 10. Make a slip knot and chain 10. That little chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet around it the whole way.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, sc 8, 3 sc in skipped ch | (22) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 8, inc x3, sc 8, inc x2 | (28) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 8, (sc, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc, inc) x2 | (34) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (40) |
Check: What you get should be a little flat oval, with 40 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (40) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the muzzle on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Your muzzle is now an open piece that's around 2.9 in (7.3 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.2 cm) long, and you've got a long yarn tail.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-6 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep, and you'll have 12 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 4, dec) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 3, dec) x2 | (8) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 4 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the ear on.
Check: All set! At this point, your ear should be a flat double layer that's around 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 1.6 in (4 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at its end and a long yarn tail.
Inner ear (make 2)
Worked in light pink.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Now your inner ear ought to be a flat oval, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.9 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Horn (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across and 0.5 in (1.2 cm) deep, and it should have 8 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the horn on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: Great! Your horn is now an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2 cm) long, and you've got a long yarn tail.
Arm (make 2)
Worked in black and white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
Check: When you're done, it should be a flat circle, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide, and you'll have 14 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Note: Color switch! When you get to the final stitch of round 5, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the white yarn through. Keep going with white starting at round 6. Just tie the two tails loosely together on the inside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-7 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.2 cm) deep, with 14 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-10 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the final part by the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 7 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is where you'll stitch the arm on.
Check: All set! Your arm is now a closed piece, roughly 1.6 in (4.1 cm) long and about 1 in (2.6 cm) wide, with a straight seam across the end and a long tail of yarn.
Leg (make 2)
Worked in black and white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, with 24 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Color switch! At the end of round 6, on that final stitch, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the white yarn through. Keep going in white starting with round 7. Just loosely knot the two tails together on the inside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-9 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) deep, with 24 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 10 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a stuffed shape around 1.7 in (4.4 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.7 cm) tall, and you'll leave 18 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 12 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 13 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! Your leg is now a firmly stuffed piece, fully closed, and it measures roughly 1.7 in (4.4 cm) wide by 1.7 in (4.4 cm) tall.
Tail
Worked in white and black.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-11 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as an open cup, roughly 0.4 in (1 cm) across and 1.8 in (4.5 cm) deep, and the edge should have 6 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Color switch! At the end of round 12, on that final stitch, pause when 2 loops remain on your hook, then draw the black yarn through. Keep going in black starting at round 13. On the inside, just loosely knot the two tails together.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 13 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
| Rnds 16-18 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a plush shape around 1.1 in (2.7 cm) across and 3.2 in (8.2 cm) high, leaving a gap of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 20 | (sc 2, dec) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc, dec) x3 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your tail is now a fully closed piece, firmly stuffed, measuring around 1.1 in (2.7 cm) wide by 3.8 in (9.7 cm) tall.
Front spot, toy's right
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 16 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (28) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! The toy's right front spot ought to be a flat oval now, roughly 1.8 in (4.5 cm) wide and 1.9 in (4.8 cm) long, with a long yarn tail left over.
Front spot, toy's left
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! The front spot on the toy's left should be a flat oval now, roughly 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.9 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Side spot
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 3. Make a slip knot, then chain 3. That little chain is the backbone of the oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc, 3 sc in last ch, sc, 3 sc in skipped ch | (8) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc, inc x3, sc, inc x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc, (sc, inc) x3, sc, (sc, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (26) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 3, inc, sc, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc, (sc 3, inc) x2 | (32) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: Done! Your side spot should now be a flat oval about 2.1 in (5.3 cm) long and 2 in (5.1 cm) wide with a long yarn tail.
Upper back spot
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 16 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (28) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: Done! Your upper back spot should now be a flat oval about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) long and 1.8 in (4.5 cm) wide with a long yarn tail.
Lower back spot
Worked in black.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2 | (16) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 16 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x2 | (22) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (28) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! That lower back spot ought to be a flat oval now, roughly 1.9 in (4.8 cm) long and 1.8 in (4.5 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Putting the cow together
Every piece is done, so let's stitch them up slowly and see your cow come alive.
1. Attach the muzzle
At round 11, put it on the head, in the middle of the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the head. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one muzzle stitch, then under the head stitch right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out in the end.
2. Attach the inner ears
Place the first one on the ear at round 4, at the front, in the middle. Pin the flat inner ear flat on the ear, its long side running toward the toy's left, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the ear underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the ear, that's what you want. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
3. Attach the ears
Place the first one on the head at round 17, one on each side. Hold the straight seam against the head and sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up pointing straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Attach the horns
At round 22, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Keep the open edge flat against the head and pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under a stitch of the horn, then under the head right beside it. Tuck in a final bit of stuffing just before the gap shuts. It should finish pointing straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
5. Attach the head
Put it centered right on top of the body, on the last round, 22. Take the head's starting end (the magic ring spot) and hold it against the body, then sew back and forth around where they meet, and after that pull the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done.
6. Attach the arms
At round 19, put the first one on the body, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the body, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up sitting along it, pointing down. After that, do the same with the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
7. Attach the legs
At round 11, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Hold the leg's closed end against the body and sew around where they meet, then pull the yarn tight so there is no gap. It should point straight out when you're done. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
8. Attach the tail
At round 11, put it on the back of the body, slightly to the toy's left. Take the tail's starting end (the spot with the magic ring) and press it to the body, then stitch around where the two meet, back and forth, and after that tug the yarn tight so no gap is left. It ought to point out and up when you're done, roughly 45 degrees from straight out.
9. Attach the front spot, toy's right
Place it on the body at round 15, at the front, a little to the toy's right. Pin the flat front spot, toy's right flat on the body, its long side running up, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the body underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the body, that's what you want.
10. Attach the front spot, toy's left
Place it on the body at round 14, at the front, a little to the toy's left. Pin the flat front spot, toy's left flat on the body, its long side running up, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the body underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the body, that's what you want.
11. Attach the side spot
At round 14, put it on the toy's left side. Set the flat side spot flat against the body, with its long side going up. Using the long tail, sew around its edge, and with each stitch, catch the body underneath. It'll curve to hug the body, that's just what you want.
12. Attach the upper back spot
Place it on the body at round 17, at the back, a little to the toy's left. Pin the flat upper back spot flat on the body, its long side running toward the toy's left, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the body underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the body, that's what you want.
13. Attach the lower back spot
Place it on the body at round 12, at the back, a little to the toy's right. Pin the flat lower back spot flat on the body, its long side running up, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the body underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the body, that's what you want.
14. Sew the nostrils
Using pink yarn, work around round 1 on the muzzle, placing one on each side. Here's how: put 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other across those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
15. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You made it, an entire cow, from your own two hands! Go on and give it a squeeze, and feel proud, since you're a crocheter now.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is this crochet cow?
About 6.7 in (17 cm) tall sitting, in DK (light worsted) cotton on a 3.5 mm hook. For a mini cow, work the same rounds in a thinner yarn with a smaller hook.
Are the black spots crocheted or embroidered?
Crocheted. The eye patch and all five spots are each a small flat piece in black, crocheted in the round, then sewn on the white head and body. That way, every cow you make can have its spots wherever you like.
How do you crochet a cow if you are a beginner?
Take it one part at a time: body, head, muzzle, ears, horns, arms, legs, tail, and then the spots. You only need single crochet, increases, decreases, and color changes for this pattern, and each round lists its stitch count so you can check along the way.
How big is the finished cow?
In DK (light worsted) weight yarn, using a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the cow ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall. Go up to a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a larger toy, but the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook and DK (light worsted) cotton, in 5 colors: white, black, light pink, cream, pink. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, any yarn will work.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
