Hey there, and welcome! You're going to crochet a cute little puppy that sits up, with long floppy ears, and no experience is needed at all. We'll take it slow, one small piece at a time.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 6 in (14 cm) tall |
| Yarn | fingering (4-ply) cotton |
| Hook | 2.5 mm |
| Colors | Tan, Cream, Brown, Black, Dark chocolate |
| Pieces | body, head, muzzle, ear x2, arm x2, leg x2, sole x2, belly patch, tail |
What you'll need
Yarn
fingering (4-ply): yarn weight 1, super fine
- Tan: about 66 yd (60 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Cream: about 12 yd (11 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Brown: about 22 yd (20 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Black: a small scrap
- Dark chocolate: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 2.5 mm crochet hook: for fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn
- 15 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
When you use this yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the puppy dog ends up around 6 in (14 cm) tall. That's roughly 27 sc and 30 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter here, switch to a different yarn or hook, and only the size will change.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the puppy dog in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Puppy dog crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in tan.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
Check: Yours ought to come out as a flat circle, around 2 in (5 cm) wide, with 42 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-13 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnds 15-16 | sc in each st around | (36) |
Check: Your piece ought to look like an open cup, roughly 2 in (5 cm) across and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) deep, with 36 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 17 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnds 18-19 | sc in each st around | (30) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 21 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should turn out to be a stuffed piece, around 2.1 in (5.4 cm) wide and 2.3 in (5.8 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 23 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 24 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your body should now measure around 2 in (5.2 cm) wide and 2.5 in (6.3 cm) tall, firmly stuffed and fully closed.
Head
Worked in tan.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
Check: When you're done, it ought to be a flat circle measuring roughly 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across, and you should have 54 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 10-12 | sc in each st around | (54) |
Note: Time for the eyes! Place the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, leaving 10 stitches in between, on the smoothest side (that's the face, the small jog where rounds begin belongs at the back). Check it from a distance before you snap the backs on inside: after they click, they're there for good.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 13-18 | sc in each st around | (54) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across and 1.2 in (3 cm) deep, with 54 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 19 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed piece, roughly 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide and 2.1 in (5.4 cm) tall, leaving an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 25 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 26 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: Finished! Your head is now a fully closed, firmly stuffed piece, around 2.5 in (6.3 cm) tall and 2.5 in (6.3 cm) wide.
Muzzle
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across, with 24 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the muzzle on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: Alright! Now your muzzle should be an open piece, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1 cm) long, and you'll have a long yarn tail left.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 8, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: Your circle ought to come out flat, around 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide, and have 20 stitches along the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-10 | sc in each st around | (20) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 8, dec) x2 | (18) |
Check: What you want is a little open cup, around 0.9 in (2.4 cm) across and 1 in (2.6 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 12-13 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnds 15-16 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 17 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 18 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Note: Lay the opening flat so the stitches from both layers match up. Work across through both layers, 7 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to seal it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the ear on.
Check: All set! Now your ear should be a flat double layer, around 1.2 in (3.1 cm) wide and 2.3 in (5.9 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Arm (make 2)
Worked in tan.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
Check: When you're done, it should be a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.7 cm) wide, and you'll have 14 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 0.7 in (1.7 cm) across and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep, and it should have 14 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-8 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
Note: Fill it just a bit, leave the end close to the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the arm on along this seam.
Check: All set! At this point your arm should be a closed piece, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide and 1 in (2.6 cm) long, with a long yarn tail and a straight seam across the end.
Leg (make 2)
Worked in tan.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across, with 24 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-8 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep, and the edge should have 24 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 9 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should come out as a stuffed piece around 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 11 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 12 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your leg is now a firmly stuffed piece, fully closed, measuring roughly 1.2 in (3 cm) wide by 1.2 in (3 cm) tall.
Sole (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Now your sole should be a flat circle that's roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Belly patch
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2 | (20) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 4, (sc, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc, inc) x2 | (26) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 26 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, inc, sc 4, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc 2, inc) x2 | (32) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 3, inc, sc 4, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc 3, inc) x2 | (38) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: Good job! Your belly patch is now a flat oval, roughly 2 in (5 cm) long and 1.8 in (4.5 cm) wide, and it has a long yarn tail.
Tail
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, roughly 0.7 in (1.8 cm) wide, and have 15 stitches around the outer edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed shape, roughly 0.8 in (2 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 8 | (sc 2, dec) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 9 | sc in each st around | (9) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc, dec) x3 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: You're all set! At this point, your tail needs to be a fully closed, firmly stuffed piece, roughly 0.8 in (2 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3 cm) tall.
Putting the puppy dog together
Now that every piece is done, we'll stitch them up and see your puppy take shape.
1. Attach the muzzle
At round 8, put it on the head, front and center. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat on the head. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the muzzle, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It ought to finish pointing out and forward, around 65 degrees from straight out.
2. Attach the ears
At round 21, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the head, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point out and down when you're done, around 50 degrees from straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
3. Attach the head
Put it centered right on top of the body, that last round, 24. Take the head's starting end (the spot with the magic ring) and press it against the body, then sew back and forth around where they meet. After that, tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It ought to point straight out when you're done.
4. Attach the arms
At round 19, put the first one on the body, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the body, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up sitting along it, pointing down. After that, do the same with the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
5. Attach the soles
Put the first sole right at the start of the leg, round 1, in the middle. Lay the flat sole flat against the leg, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, grabbing the leg below with each stitch. It'll bend to hug the leg, that's just right. After that, do the same with the other sole on the other leg, but mirrored.
6. Attach the legs
At round 8, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Keep the closed end of the leg against the body, then sew around where they meet, and pull the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point out and forward, around 35 degrees from straight out. Then repeat for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
7. Attach the belly patch
At round 12, put it on the front of the body, in the middle. Lay the flat belly patch flat on the body, with its long side going up, then sew around its edge using the long tail, catching the body underneath each stitch. It'll curve to follow the body, that's just what you want.
8. Attach the tail
At round 9, in the middle of the back, put it on the body. Take the tail's starting end (the spot with the magic ring) and hold it against the body, then sew back and forth around where they meet, and after that pull the yarn tight so no gap is left. It should point out and up when you're done, around 45 degrees from straight out.
9. Sew the nose
Using black yarn on the muzzle, near round 2, at the front, in the middle. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
10. Sew the line under the nose
Put dark chocolate yarn on the muzzle, near round 1, at the back, in the middle. Here's how: little stitches in a row, climbing up the rounds, one stitch each round.
11. Sew the mouth
With dark chocolate yarn on the muzzle, around round 3, at the back, in the middle. How: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches along, then catch the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to make a curve.
12. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
Great job! Your little dog is all done and set for snuggles, and you built the whole thing yourself.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is this crochet dog?
About 5.5 in (14 cm) tall sitting, in fingering weight (4-ply) cotton on a 2.5 mm hook. A thicker yarn with a bigger hook makes a bigger puppy from the same rounds.
What pieces does the puppy have?
A body, a head with a muzzle, two long floppy ears, two arms, two legs with cream soles, a belly patch and a tail. Each piece is worked in the round, stuffed where it needs it and sewn on at the end.
How big is the finished puppy dog?
The little pup ends up around 6 in (14 cm) tall when you use fingering (4-ply) yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. If you grab a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, the toy turns out larger; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With a 2.5 mm hook, use fingering (4-ply) cotton in 5 shades: tan, cream, brown, black, dark chocolate. If you switch to another yarn, that's fine, just move your hook up or down a size so your stitches stay tight.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
