Welcome! You are about to make a shaggy little Highland cow calf, one simple piece at a time. Take it slow, enjoy every loop, and you will be amazed at what your hands can do.
At a glance
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Finished size | about 6 in (15 cm) tall |
| Yarn | fingering (4-ply) cotton |
| Hook | 2.5 mm |
| Colors | Terracotta, Orange, Cream, Tan, Dark chocolate, Black |
| Pieces | body, head, muzzle, horn x2, ear x2, inner ear x2, front leg x2, hind leg x2, tail, tail tuft lock x6, crown lock x8, fringe lock x4, forelock, upper back head lock x6, temple lock x2, back head lock x7, cheek and nape lock x11, chest and shoulder lock x9, side and back body lock x8 |
What you'll need
Yarn
fingering (4-ply): yarn weight 1, super fine
- Terracotta: about 66 yd (60 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Orange: about 93 yd (85 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Cream: about 20 yd (18 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Tan: a small scrap
- Dark chocolate: about 14 yd (13 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Black: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 2.5 mm crochet hook: for fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn
- 8 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
The Highland cow ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall using this yarn and a 2.5 mm hook: roughly 27 sc and 30 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Changing colors: clean lines between colors
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the highland cow in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Highland cow crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in terracotta and orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
Check: When you're done, it ought to be a flat circle measuring roughly 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across, and you should have 54 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 10-14 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
Note: Color swap! When you get to the last stitch of round 15, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then draw the orange yarn through those loops. Keep going in orange starting at round 16. On the inside, loosely knot the two ends together.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | sc in each st around | (48) |
Check: Your piece ought to look like an open cup, roughly 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 48 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 17 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 18 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 20 | sc in each st around | (36) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 22 | sc in each st around | (30) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! At this point, your body needs to be an open piece around 2.6 in (6.6 cm) wide and 2.2 in (5.5 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Head
Worked in terracotta and orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
Check: Your circle ought to come out flat, roughly 3.1 in (7.8 cm) wide, and the edge should have 66 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 12-16 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Note: Color change! When you get to the last stitch of round 16, stop when you have 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the orange yarn through. Keep going with orange starting at round 17. On the inside, tie the two tails together loosely.
Note: Time for eyes! Between round 15 and round 16, on the smoothest side, that's the face, the little jog where laps start goes at the back, push the safety eyes in, with 14 stitches between them. Before you snap the backs on inside, take a look from a distance: once they click, they stay forever.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 17-21 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Check: Your piece should come out looking like an open cup, roughly 3.1 in (7.8 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) deep, with 66 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 22 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 26 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 27 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a stuffed shape measuring around 3.3 in (8.3 cm) across and 2.5 in (6.3 cm) high, and you'll leave 24 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 29 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 30 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 31 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! Now your head ought to be a solidly stuffed, totally closed piece, roughly 3 in (7.5 cm) wide and 2.9 in (7.4 cm) tall.
Muzzle
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 10. Make a slip knot and chain 10. That little chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet around it the whole way.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, sc 8, 3 sc in skipped ch | (22) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 8, inc x3, sc 8, inc x3 | (28) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 8, (sc, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc, inc) x3 | (34) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a little flat oval, with 34 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-8 | sc in each st around | (34) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the muzzle on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: Great! At this point, your muzzle ought to be an open piece that's roughly 1.8 in (4.6 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Horn (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 5 sc in magic ring | (5) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 4, inc | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 5, inc | (7) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 6, inc | (8) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, roughly 0.4 in (0.9 cm) across and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (8) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (10) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 4, inc) x2 | (12) |
| Rnd 9 | inc x2, sc 4, dec x2, sc 2 | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 11 | inc x2, sc 5, dec x2, sc 3 | (14) |
Check: What you want is something that looks like an open cup, around 0.7 in (1.7 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.4 cm) deep, with 14 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 12 | inc x2, sc 5, dec x2, sc 3 | (14) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 6, inc) x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 14 | inc x2, sc 6, dec x2, sc 4 | (16) |
| Rnds 15-17 | sc in each st around | (16) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the horn on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! Your horn is now an open piece, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) long and about 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail left over.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in terracotta.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 6, inc) x2 | (16) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across and 0.5 in (1.2 cm) deep, with 16 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-8 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 2, dec) x4 | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc, dec) x4 | (8) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 4 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the ear on.
Check: All set! Your ear should now be a flat double layer, roughly 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Inner ear (make 2)
Worked in tan.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x3 | (16) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Your inner ear ought to be a flat oval now, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Front leg (make 2)
Worked in dark chocolate and terracotta.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 8, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: Your circle ought to come out flat, around 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide, and have 20 stitches along the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (20) |
Note: A color change! When you get to the final stitch of round 6, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the terracotta yarn through those loops. From round 7 onward, keep going with terracotta. On the inside, loosely knot the two tails together.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 7 | (sc 8, dec) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 8 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: What you want is something that looks like an open cup, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) across and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 9 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 4, dec) x3 | (15) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the last part by the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (roughly 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is what you'll use to sew the front leg on.
Check: Great! Now your front leg is a closed piece that's around 1.1 in (2.7 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Hind leg (make 2)
Worked in terracotta and dark chocolate.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across, with 24 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-10 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Color swap! When you get to the last stitch of round 10, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the dark chocolate yarn through. Keep going with dark chocolate starting at round 11. Just loosely knot the two tails together on the inside.
Check: What you want is an open cup that's roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 24 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-14 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc, dec) x8 | (16) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a stuffed shape around 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 1.6 in (4.1 cm) tall, and you'll leave 16 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | dec x8 | (8) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All finished! Now your hind leg should be a tightly stuffed piece, completely closed, measuring roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 1.7 in (4.4 cm) tall.
Tail
Worked in terracotta and orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-7 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Color change! When you get to the final stitch of round 7, pause with 2 loops left on your hook and pull the orange yarn through them. Keep going with orange from round 8. Tie the two tails loosely together on the inside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 8 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: Your cup should come out open, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) across and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 12 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 9 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnds 10-12 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should come out like a stuffed piece, around 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide and 1.4 in (3.5 cm) tall, leaving an opening of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 14 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your tail is now a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide and 1.7 in (4.4 cm) tall.
Tail tuft lock (make 6)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 6 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! That tail tuft lock ought to be a flat trapezoid now, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide, 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, and with a long yarn tail.
Crown lock (make 8)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 6-7 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your crown lock ought to be a flat trapezoid now, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Fringe lock (make 4)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 6-7 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Great! Your fringe lock is now a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Forelock
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Rows 2-4 | ch 1, turn, sc 3 | (3) |
Check: When you're done, it should be a flat rectangle, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall, with 3 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 5-6 | ch 1, turn, sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your forelock ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Upper back head lock (make 6)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 6-7 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! The upper back head lock you made ought to be a flat trapezoid now, around 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail on it.
Temple lock (make 2)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-6 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 7-8 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 11 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: You did it! Now your temple lock ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Back head lock (make 7)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-6 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 7-8 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 11 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your back head lock ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Cheek and nape lock (make 11)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 6 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! At this point, your cheek and nape lock needs to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Chest and shoulder lock (make 9)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 6 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your chest and shoulder lock ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Side and back body lock (make 8)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 2, inc | (4) |
Check: What you make should end up a flat rectangle, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 4 stitches in that last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-5 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 6 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your side and back body lock is now a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Putting the highland cow together
Your parts are all done, so let's stitch them up nice and slow and see your calf start to take shape.
1. Attach the muzzle
At round 11, put it on the head, in the middle of the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the head. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one muzzle stitch, then under the head stitch right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out in the end.
2. Attach the horns
At round 20, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Keep the open edge flat against the head, then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the horn, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should finish pointing straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
3. Attach the inner ears
Place the first one on the ear at round 6, at the front, in the middle. Pin the flat inner ear flat on the ear, its long side running toward the toy's left, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the ear underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the ear, that's what you want. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Attach the ears
At round 15, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the head, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point straight out when you're done. After that, do the same thing for the other one on the opposite side, but mirrored.
5. Attach the crown locks
You put them on the head at round 27, spread out evenly the whole way around (the first one at the front, just a bit to the toy's left). Pin them all down first, so the gaps look even. Then for each one: pin the flat crown lock flat against the head, then sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the head underneath each stitch. It'll curve to hug the head, that's just what you want.
6. Attach the fringe locks
You'll put these on the head at round 21, spaced out evenly over the front: the first sits at the front, slightly toward the toy's right, and the last sits at the front, slightly toward the toy's left. Pin them all down first, so the spaces come out even. Then for each one: pin the flat fringe lock flat against the head, and stitch around its edge using the long tail, grabbing the head below with each stitch. It'll bend to hug the head, that's just what you're after.
7. Attach the forelock
At round 19, put it on the head, in the middle at the front. Lay the flat forelock flat against the head, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the head below with each stitch. It'll curve along the head, that's just what you want.
8. Attach the upper back head locks
At round 22, they get put on the head, spread out evenly around the back: the first sits at the back, slightly to the toy's left, and the last sits at the back, slightly to the toy's right. First pin them all so the gaps come out even. For each one: pin the flat upper back head lock flat against the head, then sew around its edge using the long tail, catching the head underneath each time you stitch. It'll curve along the head, that's just what you want.
9. Attach the temple locks
At round 16, put the first one on the head, one on each side of the front. With its yarn tail, sew the starting end of the temple lock (the end that has the slip knot) to the head, just a few strong stitches through that end, and let the rest hang down. Then repeat for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
10. Attach the back head locks
At round 16, they get put on the head, spread out evenly around the back: the first sits on the toy's left side, and the last sits on the toy's right side. Pin them all down first, so the gaps come out even. Then, for each one: take the starting end of the back head lock (the end that has the slip knot) and sew it to the head using its yarn tail, just a few firm stitches through that end only, then let the rest hang down.
11. Attach the cheek and nape locks
At round 12, they go onto the head, spread out evenly around the back: the first sits at the front, slightly to the toy's left, and the last sits at the front, slightly to the toy's right. Pin them all down first, so the gaps come out even. Then, for each one: using its yarn tail, sew the starting end of the cheek and nape lock (the end that has the slip knot) to the head, just a few firm stitches through that end, and let the rest hang down.
12. Attach the head
Put it centered right on top of the body, on the last round, 22. Take the head's starting end (the magic ring spot) and hold it against the body, then sew back and forth around where they meet, and after that pull the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done.
13. Attach the front legs
At round 14, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Put the straight seam up against the body and stitch along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up sitting along it, pointing down. Then repeat for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
14. Attach the hind legs
At round 8, put the first one on the body, one on each side. Set the hind leg beside the body, on its side, pointing forward, and pin it down. Where they meet, sew a few stitches, going back and forth between them, so it holds. Then repeat for the other leg on the opposite side, mirrored.
15. Attach the tail tuft locks
Round 9 is where they go on the tail, spread out evenly the whole way around (the first one sits at the front, right in the middle). First pin them all down so the gaps come out even. Then for each one: take the starting end of the tail tuft lock (the end that has the slip knot) and sew it to the tail using its yarn tail, just a few strong stitches through that end only, then let the rest hang loose.
16. Attach the tail
At round 9, put it on the body, centered at the back. Take the tail's starting end (the magic ring spot) and hold it against the body, then sew back and forth where they meet, and after that pull the yarn tight so no gap is left. It should wind up lying along it, pointing backward.
17. Attach the chest and shoulder locks
At round 17, you put them onto the body, spaced out evenly the whole way around (the first one goes in the middle, at the front). First pin them all down so the spaces come out even. Then, one at a time: pin the flat chest and shoulder lock flat against the body, and using the long tail, sew around the edge, grabbing the body below with each stitch. It'll curve along with the body, that's just what you want.
18. Attach the side and back body locks
At round 14, they get attached to the body, spaced out evenly around the back: the first sits on the toy's left side, and the last sits on its right side. Pin them all down first, so the gaps come out even. Then, for each one: pin the flat side and back body lock flat against the body, and use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the body underneath with each stitch. It'll curve along the body, that's just what you want.
19. Sew the nostrils
Using dark chocolate yarn for the muzzle, around round 2, put one on each side of the front. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over the same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
20. Sew the mouth
Using tan yarn on the muzzle, around round 4, at the back, in the center. Here's how: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches over, then grab the middle of that long stitch and pull it down a round to shape a curve.
21. Sew the front hoof cleft
Using black yarn, on the front leg, near round 3, front and center. Here's how: little stitches, one right after the other, climbing up the rounds, a single stitch each round.
22. Sew the hind hoof cleft
With black yarn on the hind leg, around round 15, at the front, in the middle. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
23. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You did it! Your fuzzy Highland cow calf is done, made by your own two hands, and ready for a big, proud squeeze.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is this crochet Highland cow?
About 5.9 in (15 cm) tall sitting, in fingering (4-ply) cotton on a 2.5 mm hook. Work the same rounds in DK cotton on a 3.5 mm hook for a bigger calf.
How is the shaggy coat made?
The coat is 62 small flat locks in orange, each worked in rows and sewn on one by one: on the crown, the fringe, the back of the head, the cheeks, the chest and the back, and a few on the tail for its tassel. You make one lock of each kind and then repeat it.
Is this Highland cow pattern good for beginners?
It is an advanced pattern because of its many pieces: 19 kinds, most of them locks for the coat. The stitches are only single crochet, increases and decreases, so a patient beginner can follow it round by round.
How big is the finished highland cow?
With fingering (4-ply) yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the highland cow ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall. Use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy, but the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
For fingering (4-ply) cotton, use a 2.5 mm hook, and pick 6 colors: terracotta, orange, cream, tan, dark chocolate, and black. If you use any other yarn, that's fine too, just move your hook up or down a size so the stitches stay tight.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's marked Advanced: lots of pieces and careful assembly. Take it one piece at a time, every round has its stitch count and a photo to check against.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
