Hi there! You're going to crochet an adorable sitting kitten that has a striped tail, and we'll take it slow, one tiny, simple step at a time. You don't need any experience, just some yarn, a hook, and a bit of patience.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 6 in (15 cm) tall |
| Yarn | fingering (4-ply) cotton |
| Hook | 2.5 mm |
| Colors | Orange, Cream, Peach, Terracotta, White, Pink, Dark chocolate, Tan |
| Pieces | body, head, muzzle, ear x2, inner ear x2, arm x2, foot x2, belly patch, tail, tail stripe 1 (nearest the body), tail stripe 2, tail stripe 3, tail stripe 4 (nearest the tip), upper back stripe, lower back stripe, forehead stripe x3, back-of-head stripe x3, upper cheek stripe x2, lower cheek stripe x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
fingering (4-ply): yarn weight 1, super fine
- Orange: about 109 yd (100 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Cream: about 21 yd (19 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Peach: a small scrap
- Terracotta: about 22 yd (20 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- White: a small scrap
- Pink: a small scrap
- Dark chocolate: a small scrap
- Tan: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 2.5 mm crochet hook: for fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn
- 15 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
When you work with a 2.5 mm hook and this yarn, the orange tabby kitten ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall: roughly 27 sc and 30 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: switch to a different hook or yarn and only the size shifts.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Changing colors: clean lines between colors
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the orange tabby kitten in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Orange tabby kitten crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Your circle needs to come out flat, roughly 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, and the edge should have 60 stitches in it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-15 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 17 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
Check: Yours should be an open cup, roughly 2.8 in (7.1 cm) across and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 48 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 19 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed piece, around 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide and 2 in (5.1 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 24 | dec x12 | (12) |
| Rnd 25 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your body is now fully closed and firmly stuffed, measuring around 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide by 2.4 in (6 cm) tall.
Head
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 10. Make a slip knot and chain 10. That little chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet around it the whole way.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, sc 8, 3 sc in skipped ch | (22) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 8, inc x3, sc 8, inc x3 | (28) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 8, (sc, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc, inc) x3 | (34) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (40) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 8, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 3, inc) x3 | (46) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 8, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 4, inc) x3 | (52) |
| Rnd 7 | sc 8, (sc 5, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 5, inc) x3 | (58) |
| Rnd 8 | sc 8, (sc 6, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 6, inc) x3 | (64) |
| Rnd 9 | sc 8, (sc 7, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 7, inc) x3 | (70) |
| Rnd 10 | sc 8, (sc 8, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 8, inc) x3 | (76) |
| Rnd 11 | sc 8, (sc 9, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 9, inc) x3 | (82) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge you'll have 82 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 12-16 | sc in each st around | (82) |
Note: Time for the eyes! Place the safety eyes on the smoothest side, that's the face, between round 15 and round 16, leaving 12 stitches between them. The little jog where laps start goes at the back. Before you snap the backs on inside, check it from a distance: once they click, they stay forever.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 17-18 | sc in each st around | (82) |
| Rnd 19 | sc 8, (sc 9, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 9, dec) x3 | (76) |
| Rnd 20 | sc 8, (sc 8, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 8, dec) x3 | (70) |
| Rnd 21 | sc 8, (sc 7, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 7, dec) x3 | (64) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out looking like an open cup, roughly 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) deep, and you'll have 64 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 22 | sc 8, (sc 6, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 6, dec) x3 | (58) |
| Rnd 23 | sc 8, (sc 5, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 5, dec) x3 | (52) |
| Rnd 24 | sc 8, (sc 4, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 4, dec) x3 | (46) |
| Rnd 25 | sc 8, (sc 3, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 3, dec) x3 | (40) |
| Rnd 26 | sc 8, (sc 2, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc 2, dec) x3 | (34) |
| Rnd 27 | sc 8, (sc, dec) x3, sc 8, (sc, dec) x3 | (28) |
| Rnd 28 | sc 8, dec x3, sc 8, dec x3 | (22) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a plush shape roughly 3.6 in (9.1 cm) across and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) high, and you'll leave 22 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 29 | dec x4, sc 3, dec x4, sc 3 | (14) |
| Rnd 30 | dec x7 | (7) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All finished! Your head should be a solidly stuffed, completely closed piece now, around 3.3 in (8.4 cm) wide and 2.9 in (7.3 cm) tall.
Muzzle
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x3 | (20) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 4, (sc, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc, inc) x3 | (26) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 4, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 4, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (32) |
Check: What you want is a little flat oval, with 32 stitches going all the way around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (32) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the muzzle on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: All right! Your muzzle is now an open piece, roughly 1.7 in (4.3 cm) wide and 0.4 in (0.9 cm) long, and you've got a long yarn tail.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 4, inc) x3 | (18) |
Check: What you want is an open cup, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 9 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the ear on.
Check: All right! Now your ear is a flat double layer, around 1.2 in (3 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) long, pressed flat, not stuffed, with a straight seam at the end plus a long yarn tail.
Inner ear (make 2)
Worked in peach.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. This piece works up flat: along that chain you crochet back and forth in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 5 | (5) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc, dec | (3) |
Check: What you make should come out as a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 3 stitches across the final row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Finished! Now your inner ear ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Arm (make 2)
Worked in cream and orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, with 18 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Color swap! At the end of round 5, on that last stitch, pause with 2 loops on your hook, then pull the orange yarn through. Keep going in orange starting with round 6. Just loosely knot the two tails together on the inside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (16) |
Check: Your piece needs to look like an open cup, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep, and you should have 16 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-9 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the final part by the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 7 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is where you'll stitch the arm on.
Check: All set! Your arm is now a closed piece, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.8 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Foot (make 2)
Worked in cream and orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 11, inc) x2 | (26) |
Note: Color swap! At the end of round 5, on that last stitch, pause with 2 loops on your hook, then pull the orange yarn through. Keep going in orange starting with round 6. Just loosely knot the two tails together on the inside.
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.2 in (3.1 cm) wide, and 26 stitches going around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-10 | sc in each st around | (26) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 1.2 in (3.1 cm) across and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 26 stitches going around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 11 | (sc 11, dec) x2 | (24) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should end up like a stuffed shape, around 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.9 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 13 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 14 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your foot should be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece now, around 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 1.4 in (3.5 cm) tall.
Belly patch
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 3, (sc, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc, inc) x3 | (24) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (30) |
| Rnd 5 | sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 3, inc) x3 | (36) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc 4, inc) x3 | (42) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All right! Now your belly patch ought to be a flat oval, roughly 2.1 in (5.4 cm) long and 2 in (5 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Tail
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, with 18 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 7 | dec x3, sc 3, inc x3, sc 6 | (18) |
| Rnd 8 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 9 | dec x3, sc 3, inc x3, sc 6 | (18) |
| Rnd 10 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 11 | dec x3, sc 3, inc x3, sc 6 | (18) |
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 13 | dec x3, sc 3, inc x3, sc 6 | (18) |
| Rnd 14 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to be shaped like an open cup, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.7 cm) deep, and have 18 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 15-22 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) across and 2.9 in (7.3 cm) high, and you'll leave 12 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 24 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your tail should be a fully closed, firmly stuffed piece now, around 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide and 3 in (7.7 cm) tall.
Tail stripe 1 (nearest the body)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 19. Make a slip knot, then chain 19. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 18 | (18) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 18 | (18) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Great! Your stripe 1 for the tail (the one closest to the body) should be a flat piece now, around 2.6 in (6.7 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Tail stripe 2
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 19. Make a slip knot, then chain 19. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 18 | (18) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 18 | (18) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Stripe 2 on the tail is now a flat strip, roughly 2.6 in (6.7 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail on it.
Tail stripe 3
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 19. Make a slip knot, then chain 19. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 18 | (18) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 18 | (18) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your tail stripe 3 is now a flat strip, roughly 2.6 in (6.7 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Tail stripe 4 (nearest the tip)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 19. Make a slip knot, then chain 19. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 18 | (18) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 18 | (18) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Great! Your stripe 4 at the tail end (closest to the tip) is now a flat piece, roughly 2.6 in (6.7 cm) across and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) high, with a long yarn tail.
Upper back stripe
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 23. Make a slip knot, then chain 23. This piece works up flat: you go back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 22 | (22) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 22 | (22) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Done! Your upper back stripe should now be a flat strip about 3.2 in (8.1 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall with a long yarn tail.
Lower back stripe
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 29. Start with a slip knot, then chain 29. This piece stays flat: you work back and forth along the chain in rows, turning at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 28 | (28) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 28 | (28) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Done! Your lower back stripe should now be a flat strip about 4.1 in (10.4 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall with a long yarn tail.
Forehead stripe (make 3)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 10. Start with a slip knot, then chain 10. This part works up flat: you go back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 9 | (9) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 9 | (9) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your forehead stripe ought to be a flat piece, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Back-of-head stripe (make 3)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 10. Start with a slip knot, then chain 10. This part works up flat: you go back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 9 | (9) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 9 | (9) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Done! Your back-of-head stripe should now be a flat strip about 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall with a long yarn tail.
Upper cheek stripe (make 2)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 8. Make a slip knot, then chain 8. This part is flat, you work back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 7 | (7) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your upper cheek stripe ought to be a flat strip now, roughly 1 in (2.6 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Lower cheek stripe (make 2)
Worked in terracotta.
Note: Ch 8. Make a slip knot, then chain 8. This part is flat, you work back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 7 | (7) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! That lower cheek stripe ought to be a flat strip now, roughly 1 in (2.6 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail on it.
Putting the orange tabby kitten together
Once every part is done, we'll join them bit by bit and see your kitten come to life.
1. Attach the muzzle
At round 10, put it on the head, front and center. Keep the open edge flat on the head, then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under a stitch of the muzzle, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should come out pointing straight ahead.
2. Attach the inner ears
Place the first one on the ear at round 4, at the front, in the middle. Pin the flat inner ear flat on the ear, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the ear underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the ear, that's what you want. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
3. Attach the ears
Put the first one on the head at round 23, one on each side. Put the straight seam against the head and stitch along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point straight out when you're done. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
4. Attach the forehead stripes
At round 24 they go onto the head, spread out evenly over the front: the first sits at the front, slightly to the toy's right, while the last sits at the front, slightly to the toy's left. Pin every one of them first, so the gaps come out even. Then, for each: pin that flat forehead stripe down flat against the head, and with the long tail, sew around its edge, catching the head below with each stitch. It's going to curve along the head, that's just what you want.
5. Attach the back-of-head stripes
You put these on the head at round 24, spaced out evenly around the back: the first sits at the back, slightly to the toy's left, and the last sits at the back, slightly to the toy's right. Pin them all down first, so the gaps come out even. Then, for each one: pin that flat back-of-head stripe flat against the head, and with the long tail, sew around its edge, catching the head underneath with every stitch. It'll curve to follow the head, that's just what you want.
6. Attach the upper cheek stripes
At round 14, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Pin that flat upper cheek stripe down flat onto the head, then with the long tail sew around its edge, catching the head below with each stitch. It's going to curve along the head, that's just what you want. After that, do the same with the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
7. Attach the lower cheek stripes
At round 11, put the first one on the head, one on each side. Lay the flat lower cheek stripe flat against the head, then sew around its edge using the long tail, catching the head below with each stitch. It'll curve to hug the head, that's just right. After that, repeat for the second one on the opposite side, mirrored.
8. Attach the head
Put it right on top of the body (its last round, 25), in the middle. Hold the head's starting end (where the magic ring is) up against the body, then sew around where they meet, back and forth, and pull the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done.
9. Attach the arms
At round 19, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Keep the straight seam against the body, then sew back and forth along it through both pieces. It should lie along it, pointing down. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
10. Attach the feet
At round 8, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Keep the closed end of the foot against the body, and sew around where they meet, then tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should come out pointing forward and out, roughly 68 degrees from straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
11. Attach the belly patch
At round 12, put it on the front of the body, in the middle. Lay the flat belly patch flat on the body, with its long side going up, then sew around its edge using the long tail, catching the body underneath each stitch. It'll curve to follow the body, that's just what you want.
12. Wrap the tail stripe 1 (nearest the body)
At round 5, set it around the tail, with the ends meeting in the middle at the front. Take tail stripe 1 (the one closest to the body), wrap it around the tail, and pull it snug so it gathers the tail in a bit. Where the ends meet, sew them together, then add a couple of stitches through the tail so it won't slide.
13. Wrap the tail stripe 2
Place it around the tail at round 10, its ends meeting at the front, in the middle. Wrap the tail stripe 2 around the tail and pull it snug, so it gathers the tail in a little. Sew its two ends together where they meet, then a couple of stitches through the tail so it can't slide.
14. Wrap the tail stripe 3
Place it around the tail at round 15, its ends meeting at the front, in the middle. Wrap the tail stripe 3 around the tail and pull it snug, so it gathers the tail in a little. Sew its two ends together where they meet, then a couple of stitches through the tail so it can't slide.
15. Wrap the tail stripe 4 (nearest the tip)
Place it around the tail at round 20, its ends meeting at the front, in the middle. Wrap the tail stripe 4 (nearest the tip) around the tail and pull it snug, so it gathers the tail in a little. Sew its two ends together where they meet, then a couple of stitches through the tail so it can't slide.
16. Attach the tail
Put it on the body at round 7, at the back, a little to the toy's left. Hold the tail's starting end (where the magic ring is) against the body and sew around where they meet, back and forth, then pull the yarn tight so there's no gap. It should end up lying along it, pointing up.
17. Attach the upper back stripe
At round 19, put it on the back of the body, in the center. Lay the flat upper back stripe on the body and pin it down, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the body below with each stitch. It'll curve along the body, that's just right.
18. Attach the lower back stripe
At round 14, put it on the back of the body, right in the center. Lay the flat lower back stripe flat against the body, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the body below with each stitch. It's going to curve along with the body, and that's just what you want.
19. Sew the nose
Using pink yarn, near round 3, in the middle, at the front of the muzzle. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
20. Sew the mouth
Using dark chocolate yarn on the muzzle, around round 1, at the front, in the middle. Here's how: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches over, then grab the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to shape a curve.
21. Sew the upper whiskers
With white yarn on the head, around round 13, one on each side of the front. How: small stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
22. Sew the middle whiskers
Using white yarn on the head, near round 11, one on each side of the front. How: little stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
23. Sew the lower whiskers
With white yarn on the head, near round 9, one on each side of the front. How to do it: make small stitches, each just one stitch long, one right after another.
24. Sew the lower arm stripe
At the front, in the middle, around round 7, using terracotta yarn on the arm. How to do it: little stitches, one stitch long each, then the next.
25. Sew the upper arm stripe
With terracotta yarn on the arm, around round 9, at the front, in the middle. How: small stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
26. Sew the front leg stripe
Around round 7, in the middle at the front, use terracotta yarn on the foot. Here's how: little stitches, one stitch long each, worked one after the other.
27. Sew the back leg stripe
At the front, in the middle, around round 9, using terracotta yarn on the foot. Here's how: little stitches, one stitch long each, one right after the other.
28. Sew the foot toe lines
Using tan yarn on the foot, near round 3, put one on each side, toward the back. How to do it: little stitches in a row, working up the rounds, just one stitch for each round.
29. Sew the paw toe lines
With tan yarn on the arm, near round 3, one on each side of the front. How: little stitches in a row, heading up the rounds, a stitch every round.
30. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You finished it! Your orange tabby kitten is done, stripes and everything, and you made all of it with your own hands.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How do you crochet a cat?
Crochet the parts one by one, working in single crochet rounds: the body, head, muzzle, ears plus their inner ears, arms, feet, belly patch, tail, and tabby stripes. After that, stitch them together, beginning with the face, wind the stripes around the tail, and stitch the nose, mouth, and whiskers. Each round and each sewing step for this kitten comes with a photo.
How big is the crochet cat?
About 6 in (15 cm) tall sitting, in fingering (4-ply) cotton on a 2.5 mm hook. A thicker yarn and a bigger hook make a bigger cat; the rounds stay the same.
How big is the finished orange tabby kitten?
With a 2.5 mm hook and fingering (4-ply) yarn, the orange tabby kitten ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall. If you use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, the toy gets bigger; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With a 2.5 mm hook, use fingering (4-ply) cotton in 8 shades: orange, cream, peach, terracotta, white, pink, dark chocolate, tan. Any yarn is fine, as long as you change your hook size up or down so the stitches stay tight.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
