Hi there! You're going to crochet a small round pig that has floppy ears and a curly tail, and no experience is needed at all. We'll take it one little step at a time, and each stitch you make matters.
At a glance
| Skill level | Easy |
| Finished size | about 6 in (14 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | Light pink, Pink, Brick red |
| Pieces | body (head and body in one), snout, ear x2, front leg x2, back leg x2, front hoof x2, back hoof x2, curly tail |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- Light pink: about 115 yd (105 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Pink: about 16 yd (15 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Brick red: about 13 yd (12 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 15 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
With this yarn, Pig ends up around 6 in (14 cm) tall, using a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook: roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter, a different yarn or hook just makes it bigger or smaller.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the pig in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Pig crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body (head and body in one)
Worked in light pink.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 10, inc) x6 | (72) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 11, inc) x6 | (78) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 12, inc) x6 | (84) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 13, inc) x6 | (90) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 14, inc) x6 | (96) |
Check: When you're done, it ought to be a flat circle measuring about 6 in (15.3 cm) across, and you should have 96 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 17-24 | sc in each st around | (96) |
Note: Time for the eyes! On the smoothest side, that's the face, since the small jog where rounds begin belongs at the back, place the safety eyes between round 23 and round 24, leaving 15 stitches between them. Before you snap the backs on inside, check it from a distance: after they click, they won't come off.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 25-26 | sc in each st around | (96) |
| Rnd 27 | (sc 14, dec) x6 | (90) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc 13, dec) x6 | (84) |
| Rnd 29 | (sc 12, dec) x6 | (78) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 6 in (15.3 cm) across and 1.8 in (4.5 cm) deep, and the edge should have 78 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 30 | (sc 11, dec) x6 | (72) |
| Rnd 31 | (sc 10, dec) x6 | (66) |
| Rnd 32 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 33 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 34 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 35 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 36 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 37 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 38 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Your piece should come out stuffed, roughly 4.7 in (12 cm) tall and 5.5 in (14.6 cm) wide, and you'll leave an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 39 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 40 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 41 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! Your body, head and body together as one, should be a firmly stuffed, completely closed piece now, about 5.5 in (13.5 cm) tall and 5.5 in (13.6 cm) wide.
Snout
Worked in pink.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 3, inc x3) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 4, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc) x2 | (24) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 11, inc) x2 | (26) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 26 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (26) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch, then snip the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the snout on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it gently.
Check: All set! Now your snout should be an open piece, roughly 1.9 in (4.8 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) long, and you'll have a long yarn tail.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in pink.
Note: Ch 9. Make a slip knot, then chain 9. You work this piece flat: go back and forth along the chain in rows, turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 8 | (8) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc | (10) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 8, inc | (12) |
Check: What you make should come out like a flat trapezoid, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) tall, with 12 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 4-6 | ch 1, turn, sc 12 | (12) |
Check: What you make should come out as a flat trapezoid, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, with 12 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, sc 12 | (12) |
| Row 8 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec | (10) |
| Row 9 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec | (8) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec | (6) |
| Row 11 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2, dec | (4) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your ear is now a flat trapezoid, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 2 in (5 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Front leg (make 2)
Worked in light pink.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 18 stitches going around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) across and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-9 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail of about 12 in (30 cm), that's what you'll use to sew the front leg on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Your front leg is now an open piece, roughly 1.3 in (3.4 cm) long and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Back leg (make 2)
Worked in light pink.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 18 stitches going around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) across and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-9 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and you'll use it to sew the back leg on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All set! Your back leg is now an open piece, roughly 1.3 in (3.4 cm) long and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, and it has a long yarn tail.
Front hoof (make 2)
Worked in brick red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, and you should have 21 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (21) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), to sew the front hoof on with. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: Great! Now your front hoof is an open piece that's around 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Back hoof (make 2)
Worked in brick red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, and you should have 21 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (21) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the following stitch. Then snip the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the back hoof on. Fill it gently, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! Now your back hoof ought to be an open piece, roughly 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Curly tail
Worked in pink.
Note: Ch 11. Leaving a tail roughly 6 in (15 cm) long for sewing, make a slip knot, then chain 11. That makes a curl: work one row back along the chain, and you're finished.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | 2 sc in each ch | (20) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your curly tail is now a bouncy corkscrew curl, roughly 1.2 in (3 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide (it coils on its own, don't flatten it), with a yarn tail at the end where it began.
Putting the pig together
You've got all your parts done, so no rush, let's stitch them into a single cheerful pig.
1. Attach the snout
At round 20, put it on the body (head and body in one), at the front, in the middle. Pin it all round, keeping the open edge flat against the body (head and body in one). With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the snout, then under the body (head and body in one) right next to it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out.
2. Attach the ears
At round 33, put the first ear on the body (head and body as one), one on each side of the front. Keep the ear's first row (the chain edge) flat against the body (head and body as one) so the rest sticks out, then sew just along that edge, going back and forth, to make it firm. It should sit along it, pointing down. Next, repeat for the other ear on the opposite side, mirrored.
3. Attach the front hoofs
Put the first one on the front leg at round 2, one on each side of the front. Keep the open edge flat against the front leg and pin it all the way around. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one stitch of the front hoof, then under the front leg right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a little more stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
4. Attach the front legs
At round 11, put the first one onto the body (head and body in one), one on each side of the front. Pin it all round with the open edge held flat against the body (head and body in one). With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the front leg, then under the body (head and body in one) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out. Then, mirrored, do the same for the other one on the other side.
5. Attach the back hoofs
Place the first one on the back leg at round 2, one on each side. Hold the open edge flat against the back leg and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the back hoof, then under the back leg right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
6. Attach the back legs
At round 11, put the first one onto the body (head and body in one), one on each side, toward the back. Keep the open edge flat against the body (head and body in one), and pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch all around the edge: under one stitch of the back leg, then under the body (head and body in one) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done. Next, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
7. Attach the curly tail
Put it on the body (head and body in one) at round 22, on the back, in the center. With its yarn tail, sew the starting end of the curly tail (the end that has the slip knot) onto the body (head and body in one), just a few strong stitches through that end, and let the rest hang loose.
8. Sew the cheeks
With pink yarn on the body (head and body in one), around round 19, one on each side of the front. How: 2 short stitches side by side make one cheek.
9. Sew the nostrils
Using brick red yarn, around round 1, one on each side of the snout. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other into those same 2 stitches, until it looks nice and plump.
10. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You did it, your own pig is done! Squeeze it and feel proud, since you made each part by hand.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is the finished pig?
With DK (light worsted) yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the pig ends up around 6 in (14 cm) tall. Use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook and DK (light worsted) cotton, in 3 colors: light pink, pink, brick red. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, any yarn works.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
Yep, it's labeled Easy: single crochet worked in the round, plus increases and decreases, and each round has a stitch count.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
