Meet a battered old billy goat with a gappy grin and a gold tooth, and you are about to make him from scratch. Never crocheted before? Good news: this rascal is meant to be wonky, so every wobble only adds to his charm.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 9 in (23 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | Cream, Mustard, Pink, Raspberry, Tan, White, Lavender, Brown, Light pink, Dark chocolate, Peach |
| Pieces | body, gold tooth, upper tooth (middle), upper tooth (right), tongue, mouth, head, muzzle, eyeball x2, upper eyelid x2, lower eyelid x2, horn x2, ear x2, inner ear x2, arm x2, leg x2, hair tuft x8, beard x6, tail x7, belly patch, sticking plaster |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- Cream: about 126 yd (115 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Mustard: a small scrap
- Pink: a small scrap
- Raspberry: about 14 yd (13 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Tan: about 8 yd (7 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- White: about 8 yd (7 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Lavender: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Brown: about 16 yd (15 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Light pink: a small scrap
- Dark chocolate: about 13 yd (12 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Peach: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 12 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
When you work with this yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, Rogue goat ends up around 9 in (23 cm) tall. That's roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter here: switch to a different yarn or hook and only the size will change.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Changing colors: clean lines between colors
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the rogue goat in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Rogue goat crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across, and you should have 48 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 9-15 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
Check: What you want is a cup that's open, roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) deep, with 42 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 17 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 19 | sc in each st around | (36) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 21 | sc in each st around | (30) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 23 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Your body is now an open piece, roughly 3.3 in (8.5 cm) wide and 3.2 in (8.1 cm) long, and it has a long yarn tail.
Gold tooth
Worked in mustard.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-3 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Slip stitch in the following stitch, then snip the yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), that's what you'll use to sew the gold tooth on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, stuffing it gently. Put it to one side: you sew it in as you make the head.
Check: All set! Your gold tooth is now an open piece, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Upper tooth (middle)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-4 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew on the upper tooth (middle). Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook and stuff it softly. Set it aside: while you make the head, it gets sewn in.
Check: Done! Your upper tooth (middle) should now be an open piece about 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Upper tooth (right)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-4 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), that's what you'll use to sew on the upper tooth (right). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook and stuff it softly. Put it to one side: you'll sew it in as you make the head.
Check: Done! Your upper tooth (right) should now be an open piece about 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Tongue
Worked in pink.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 4, inc x3) x2 | (20) |
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (20) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the tongue on. Stuff it softly, use the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end. Put it aside: it gets sewn in while you make the head.
Check: All set! Now your tongue should be an open piece that's around 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Mouth
Worked in raspberry.
Note: Ch 12. Make a slip knot, then chain 12. That little chain is the backbone of the oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 10, 3 sc in last ch, sc 10, 3 sc in skipped ch | (26) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 10, inc x3) x2 | (32) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 4, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 4, inc) x2 | (38) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 5, inc) x2 | (44) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 21, inc) x2 | (46) |
Check: What you want is a little flat oval, and around its edge you should have 46 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-9 | sc in each st around | (46) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the following stitch, and then snip the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the mouth on. Put it to one side: it gets sewn in as you make the head.
Check: All set! Now your mouth should be an open piece that's around 2.9 in (7.3 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.2 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Head
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
Check: Your circle needs to come out flat and measure roughly 4.1 in (10.5 cm) wide, and you should have 66 stitches going all the way around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (66) |
| Rnd 13 | sc 20, ch 20, skip 26, sc 20 | (60) |
| Rnd 14 | sc in each st around | (60) |
Note: Sew in the mouth now, while you can still reach inside. First sew these onto its inside (the side that shows), each by its open edge, adding a little stuffing before each gap closes: the tongue on the floor (round 3); the upper tooth (right) on the roof, at the rim (round 9), leaning down; the upper tooth (middle) on the roof, one round in from the rim (round 8); and the gold tooth on the floor, at the rim (round 9). Then push the mouth into the opening in the head, rounded end first, tongue at the bottom, and sew its edge to the opening all round with its long tail: about 20 stitches along the chain, 26 along the skipped stitches. Sew it a little crooked, lower on the toy's left.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 15-21 | sc in each st around | (60) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 4.1 in (10.5 cm) across and 1.6 in (4.1 cm) deep, with 60 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 22 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 26 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 27 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed piece, around 4.3 in (11 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.8 cm) tall, leaving an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 29 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 30 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 31 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your head should be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece now, around 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Muzzle
Worked in tan.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 4, inc x3) x2 | (20) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 9, inc) x2 | (22) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a tiny flat oval, with 22 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (22) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the muzzle on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: Great! Your muzzle is now an open piece, roughly 1.6 in (4 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, with a long yarn tail left over.
Eyeball (make 2)
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Note: It's eye time! From the outside, push the safety eye through that tiny hole at the center of the magic ring, right at the tip of the eyeball, then snap its back on inside. After it clicks, it stays forever.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 18 stitches going around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the eyeball on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook and stuff it softly.
Check: Great! Now your eyeball should be an open piece around 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Upper eyelid (make 2)
Worked in lavender.
Note: Ch 13. Make a slip knot, then chain 13. This piece is flat: along that chain you crochet back and forth in rows, turning at the end of each row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 12 | (12) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 12 | (12) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec | (10) |
Check: When you're done, it should come out as a flat trapezoid, roughly 2 in (5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) tall, with 10 stitches in the final row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec | (8) |
| Row 5 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec | (6) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your upper eyelid ought to look like a flat trapezoid, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Lower eyelid (make 2)
Worked in lavender.
Note: Ch 13. Make a slip knot, then chain 13. This piece is flat: along that chain you crochet back and forth in rows, turning at the end of each row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 12 | (12) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 12 | (12) |
Check: What you get should be a flat strip, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 0.4 in (0.9 cm) tall, with 12 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec | (10) |
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec | (8) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Now your lower eyelid ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 2.4 in (6 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Horn (make 2)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat circle, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide, and 9 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (9) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 5 | inc x3, sc 3, dec x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 6 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
| Rnd 8 | inc x3, sc 5, dec x3, sc | (15) |
| Rnd 9 | sc in each st around | (15) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.4 cm) deep, and you should have 15 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 10 | (sc 4, inc) x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 11 | inc x3, sc 6, dec x3, sc 3 | (18) |
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 13 | inc x3, sc 6, dec x3, sc 3 | (18) |
| Rnds 14-15 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the horn on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All right! Your horn is now an open piece, roughly 2.6 in (6.6 cm) long and about 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 6, inc) x2 | (16) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) deep, with 16 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-9 | sc in each st around | (16) |
Check: What you want is an open cup, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) across and 1.3 in (3.4 cm) deep, with 16 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 10 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the ear on along this seam.
Check: Finished! At this point, your ear should be a flat double layer, roughly 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 2.1 in (5.4 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Inner ear (make 2)
Worked in light pink.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 4, inc x3) x2 | (20) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Now your inner ear ought to be a flat oval, roughly 1.5 in (3.9 cm) long and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Arm (make 2)
Worked in dark chocolate and cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide, and it should have 15 stitches around the outer edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (15) |
Note: Color swap! At the end of round 5, on that last stitch, pause when 2 loops are left on your hook, then draw the cream yarn through. From round 6 on, keep going with cream. On the inside, loosely knot the two tails together.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
| Rnds 7-9 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Check: You want yours to be an open cup, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3 cm) deep, and it should have 12 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 10-15 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Fill it just a bit, leave the end close to the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the arm on along this seam.
Check: All set! Now your arm should be a closed piece, roughly 1.1 in (2.7 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.5 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Leg (make 2)
Worked in dark chocolate and cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, and you should have 21 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-6 | sc in each st around | (21) |
Note: Switch colors! On the final stitch of round 6, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the cream yarn through. Keep going with cream starting at round 7. Just loosely knot the two tails together on the inside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 7 | sc 7, dec x3, sc 8 | (18) |
| Rnd 8 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that measures roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) across and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) deep, having 18 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 9-12 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the leg on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing gently down to the end.
Check: All set! Now your leg should be an open piece, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and 1.9 in (4.7 cm) long, with a long yarn tail left over.
Hair tuft (make 8)
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 7. Create a slip knot, then chain 7. That makes a strand: go one row back along the chain, and you're finished.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 6 | (6) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your hair tuft ought to be a flat strip, roughly 1.2 in (3 cm) wide and 0.2 in (0.5 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Beard (make 6)
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 9. Create a slip knot, then chain 9. That's one strand: work one row back along the chain, and you're finished.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 8 | (8) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your beard ought to be a flat strip now, around 1.6 in (4 cm) wide and 0.2 in (0.5 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Tail (make 7)
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That's a strand: go one row back along the chain, and you're done.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 5 | (5) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: Done! Your tail should now be a flat strip around 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 0.2 in (0.5 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Belly patch
Worked in tan.
Note: Ch 8. Make a slip knot, then chain 8. This part is flat, you work back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 7 | (7) |
| Rows 2-4 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat rectangle, roughly 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide by 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall, with 7 stitches in the final row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 5-7 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All right! Now your belly patch ought to be a flat rectangle, roughly 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.2 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Sticking plaster
Worked in peach.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. This piece works up flat: along that chain you crochet back and forth in rows, and you turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 5 | (5) |
| Rows 2-3 | ch 1, turn, sc 5 | (5) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your sticking plaster ought to be a flat rectangle, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Putting the rogue goat together
Now that every piece is done, the fun part arrives: stitching this old rascal together, crooked bits and all.
1. Attach the muzzle
At round 18, put it on the head, front and center. Keep the open edge flat on the head, then pin it all around. With the long tail, stitch all the way around that edge: under a stitch of the muzzle, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should wind up pointing straight out.
2. Attach the upper eyelids
Put the first one on the eyeball at round 3, counting from its tip, and set it right on top. Now take the upper eyelid and place it over the top of the eyeball just like a lid: the first row (that straight chain edge) goes across the tip of the eyeball, over the upper part of the safety eye, and the last row sits against the head. Pin it so it hugs the eyeball, then use the long tail to sew down its two ends and its last row, onto the eyeball and the head around it. Keep the straight edge across the tip free: that's the lid's edge. After that, do the same thing for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
3. Attach the lower eyelids
Put the first one under the eyeball, on round 3 (counting from its tip). Like a lid, set the lower eyelid over the bottom of the eyeball: its first row (the straight chain edge) goes across the eyeball's tip, over the lower part of the safety eye, and its last row sits against the head. Pin it so it hugs the eyeball, then use the long tail to sew down its two ends and its last row, onto the eyeball and the head around it. Keep the straight edge across the tip loose: that's the lid's edge. Then put the other one on the toy's right, not exactly mirrored: on round 2 of its own eyeball, not round 3. This toy is lopsided on purpose.
4. Attach the eyeballs
Place the first one on the head at round 16, one on each side of the front. Hold the open edge flat against the head and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the eyeball, then under the head right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing straight out. Then the other one on the toy's right, not mirrored exactly: on round 18 of the head instead of round 16. This toy is lopsided on purpose.
5. Attach the horns
Place the first one on the head at round 26, one on each side. Hold the open edge flat against the head and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the horn, then under the head right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing straight out. Then the other one on the toy's right, not mirrored exactly: on round 27 of the head instead of round 26, and a little nearer the middle. This toy is lopsided on purpose.
6. Attach the inner ears
Place the first one on the ear at round 7 (counted from its tip), on its side toward the toy's middle. Pin the flat inner ear flat on the ear, its long side running toward the toy's left, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the ear underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the ear, that's what you want. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
7. Attach the ears
Put the first one on the head at round 19, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the head, then sew back and forth along it through both pieces. It should point straight out when you're done. Then put the other one on the toy's right, not an exact mirror: on round 21 of the head, not round 19. This toy is meant to be lopsided.
8. Attach the hair tufts
At round 30, put them on the head, spaced out evenly the whole way around (the first one goes at the front, in the center). First pin every one down so the spaces come out even. Then for each tuft: take the starting end (that's the end with the slip knot) and stitch it to the head using its yarn tail, just a few strong stitches through that end, leaving the rest to hang loose.
9. Attach the beards
At round 6, they get attached to the head, spaced out evenly over the front: the first sits at the front, slightly to the toy's right, and the last sits at the front, slightly to the toy's left. First pin them all down so the gaps come out even. Then, for each one: using its yarn tail, stitch the beginning end of the beard (the end that has the slip knot) onto the head, just a few strong stitches through that end, and leave the rest hanging loose.
10. Attach the sticking plaster
Place it on the head at round 15, on the toy's left side. Pin the flat sticking plaster flat on the head, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the head underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the head, that's what you want.
11. Attach the head
Put it centered on the top of the body, on round 23, the last one. Take the head's starting end, the spot with the magic ring, and hold it against the body. Sew back and forth around where they meet, then tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done.
12. Attach the arms
Put the first one on the body at round 19, one on each side. Put the straight seam against the body and sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up lying along it, pointing down. Then put the other one on the toy's right, not mirrored exactly: on round 20 of the body, not round 19. This toy is lopsided on purpose.
13. Attach the legs
At round 6, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under a stitch of the leg, then under the body right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when done. Then mirror it and do the other one the same way on the opposite side.
14. Attach the tails
At round 7, they go onto the body, spaced out evenly around the back: the first one sits at the middle of the back, and the last one sits at the middle of the back too. Pin every one down first, so the spaces come out even. Then, for each: take the starting end of the tail (the end that has the slip knot) and sew it to the body using its yarn tail, just a few strong stitches through that end alone, then leave the rest hanging loose.
15. Attach the belly patch
Place it on the body at round 9, at the front, a little to the toy's left. Pin the flat belly patch flat on the body, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the body underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the body, that's what you want.
16. Sew the nose
Using dark chocolate yarn on the muzzle, around round 1, on the left side of the toy. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
17. Sew the left eyebrow
With tan yarn on the head, around round 22, at the front, a little to the toy's left. How: small stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
18. Sew the right eyebrow
At the front, a bit to the toy's right, around round 25, put tan yarn on the head. Here's how: little stitches, one stitch long each, one right after another.
19. Sew the cheek scar
Using dark chocolate yarn, put it on the head near round 17, at the front, just a bit to the toy's right. Here's how: make small stitches right next to each other, working up the rounds, one stitch in each round.
20. Sew the scar stitch upper
Using dark chocolate yarn, at round 18, on the head, near the front and a bit to the toy's right. Here's how: make one stitch that goes diagonally across 2 stitches, then add a second one crossing it in the opposite direction.
21. Sew the scar stitch lower
Around round 16, at the front and a little to the toy's right, use dark chocolate yarn on the head. Here's how: make one stitch that goes diagonally over 2 stitches, then a second stitch that crosses it the other way.
22. Sew the patch stitches bottom
For the belly patch, using dark chocolate yarn around round 1, work on the circle. Here's how: make one stitch that goes diagonally across 2 stitches, then add a second stitch crossing it in the opposite direction.
23. Sew the patch stitches middle
Around round 4, on the circle, use dark chocolate yarn for the belly patch. Here's how: make one stitch that goes diagonally across 2 stitches, then add a second one crossing it in the opposite direction.
24. Sew the patch stitches top
Using dark chocolate yarn on the belly patch, near round 7, on the circle. Here's how: one stitch that goes diagonally across 2 stitches, then another one crossing it the opposite way.
25. Sew the chest freckle
Using tan yarn on the body, near round 18, at the front, just a bit to the toy's left. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
26. Sew the belly freckle
Using tan yarn on the body, near round 11, at the front, slightly to the toy's right. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other, all over the same 2 stitches, until it looks nice and plump.
27. Sew the belly freckle low
Using tan yarn on the body, near round 10, at the front, slightly to the toy's right. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
28. Sew the cheek freckle
Using tan yarn on the head, near round 18, at the front, just a bit to the toy's left. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over the same 2 stitches, until it looks good and plump.
29. Sew the back freckle
With tan yarn on the body, around round 17, at the back, a little to the toy's left. How: make 4 or 5 stitches on top of each other over the same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
30. Sew the back freckle low
Using tan yarn on the body, near round 15, at the back, in the middle. How: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
31. Sew the back of head freckle
With tan yarn on the head, near round 8, at the back, in the center. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over the same 2 stitches until it looks good and plump.
32. Sew the back of head freckle two
With tan yarn at the back, in the middle of the head, near round 9. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches, till it looks nice and plump.
33. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
Your rogue goat is standing there grinning at you with his gold tooth, you did it! All his lopsided parts came from your own hands, and he wouldn't want it any other way.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is the finished rogue goat?
The rogue goat ends up about 9 in (23 cm) tall, worked in DK (light worsted) yarn with a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook. Use a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook and DK (light worsted) cotton, you'll want 11 colors: cream, mustard, pink, raspberry, tan, white, lavender, brown, light pink, dark chocolate, peach. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, any yarn works.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
