Take a picture of any toy, and you'll get a crochet pattern that's all yours. Make yours in the app

Home > Free Patterns > Animals > Crochet Frog Pattern: Free Amigurumi Frog
Frog free amigurumi crochet pattern, with two more pictures of the finished toy
Free crochet pattern

Crochet Frog Pattern: Free Amigurumi Frog

Free Frog amigurumi crochet pattern: easy, about 5 in (13 cm) tall in fingering (4-ply) yarn. Every round with its stitch count, photos and a PDF.

What you see is what you make

Not made up by AI: every pattern picture (the toy, each piece, each step) starts as a 3D render of this pattern's own stitches from our crochet engine. An image model turns each render into the photo you see, and the shape is checked against the render.

Hi there! You're going to crochet a happy little frog, and no prior skills are needed. We'll take it slow, one tiny bit at a time, and each step is simpler than it seems.

At a glance

Skill levelEasy
Finished sizeabout 5 in (13 cm) tall
Yarnfingering (4-ply) cotton
Hook2.5 mm
ColorsPea green, Cream, Dark chocolate, Peach, Green
Piecesbody, head, eye white x2, eye bump x2, belly patch, arm x2, thigh x2, foot x2

What you'll need

Yarn

fingering (4-ply): yarn weight 1, super fine

  • Pea green: about 82 yd (75 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
  • Cream: about 8 yd (7 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
  • Dark chocolate: a small scrap
  • Peach: a small scrap
  • Green: a small scrap

Tools and notions

  • 2.5 mm crochet hook: for fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn
  • 18 mm black safety eyes: 1
  • Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
  • Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
  • 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
  • Scissors

Size and gauge

With this yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the frog ends up around 5 in (13 cm) tall: roughly 27 sc and 30 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Rndround, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round
scsingle crochet
incincrease: 2 sc in the same stitch
decdecrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest)
st(s)stitch(es)
( ) x6repeat what's in brackets 6 times
(12)the stitches you have at the end of the round

If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.

Good to know

  • Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
  • Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
  • When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
  • Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.

Techniques in this pattern

Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.

All the crocheted pieces of the Frog amigurumi, laid out
The pieces you'll make: body, head, eye white (2), eye bump (2), belly patch, arm (2), thigh (2), foot (2).

Rather follow pictures? Make the frog in the app.

Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.

Frog crochet pattern

Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.

Body

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)
Rnd 4(sc 2, inc) x6(24)
Rnd 5(sc 3, inc) x6(30)
Rnd 6(sc 4, inc) x6(36)
Rnd 7(sc 5, inc) x6(42)
Rnd 8(sc 6, inc) x6(48)

Check: Your circle ought to come out flat, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) wide, and you should have 48 stitches around the outside.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 9-14sc in each st around(48)
Rnd 15(sc 6, dec) x6(42)

Check: What you want is something that looks like an open cup, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) across and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, and the edge should have 42 stitches around it.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16sc in each st around(42)
Rnd 17(sc 5, dec) x6(36)
Rnd 18sc in each st around(36)
Rnd 19(sc 4, dec) x6(30)
Rnd 20sc in each st around(30)
Rnd 21(sc 3, dec) x6(24)

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, and then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm). Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.

Check: All set! Your body should now be an open piece around 2.4 in (6.2 cm) wide and 2 in (5.2 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished body
The body, finished

Head

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)
Rnd 4(sc 2, inc) x6(24)
Rnd 5(sc 3, inc) x6(30)
Rnd 6(sc 4, inc) x6(36)
Rnd 7(sc 5, inc) x6(42)
Rnd 8(sc 6, inc) x6(48)
Rnd 9(sc 7, inc) x6(54)
Rnd 10(sc 8, inc) x6(60)
Rnd 11(sc 9, inc) x6(66)

Check: Your circle ought to come out flat, roughly 3.1 in (7.8 cm) wide, and the edge should have 66 stitches.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 12-17sc in each st around(66)
Rnd 18(sc 9, dec) x6(60)
Rnd 19(sc 8, dec) x6(54)

Check: Yours should come out like an open cup, roughly 3.1 in (7.8 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2 cm) deep, with 54 stitches around the edge.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 20(sc 7, dec) x6(48)
Rnd 21(sc 6, dec) x6(42)
Rnd 22(sc 5, dec) x6(36)
Rnd 23(sc 4, dec) x6(30)
Rnd 24(sc 3, dec) x6(24)

Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.

Check: What you want is a stuffed shape, roughly 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across and 2.1 in (5.4 cm) high, and you'll leave 24 stitches open.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 25(sc 2, dec) x6(18)
Rnd 26(sc, dec) x6(12)
Rnd 27dec x6(6)

Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.

Check: All set! Your head should be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece now, around 2.6 in (6.5 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.5 cm) tall.

Frog amigurumi: the finished head
The head, finished

Eye white (make 2)

Worked in cream.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to smooth the edge, then cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Set it aside: it goes on the eye bump while you make it, just before the eyes go in.

Check: All right! Now your eye white ought to be a flat circle, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished eye white
The eye white, finished

Eye bump (make 2)

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)
Rnd 4(sc 5, inc) x3(21)

Check: When you're done, it should come out as a flat circle, around 1 in (2.5 cm) across, and you'll have 21 stitches around the edge.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 5-6sc in each st around(21)

Note: Eye time, the face goes on first. Take the eye whites you made earlier. Pin the eye whites on round 4, at the front, in the middle. Push each safety eye through the eye white and into the eye bump between round 5 and round 6. Look at it from a distance, then snap the backs on inside: once they click, they stay forever. While you can still reach inside, sew around the edge of each eye white with its long tail.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 7sc in each st around(21)

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the eye bump on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.

Check: Great! At this point, your eye bump ought to be an open piece that's roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) long, and it should have a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished eye bump
The eye bump, finished

Belly patch

Worked in cream.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)

Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, with 18 stitches around the outside.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 4(sc 2, inc) x6(24)
Rnd 5(sc 3, inc) x6(30)
Rnd 6(sc 4, inc) x6(36)

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.

Check: All set! Your belly patch ought to be a flat circle now, roughly 1.7 in (4.2 cm) across, with a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished belly patch
The belly patch, finished

Arm (make 2)

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)

Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide, and around the edge you should have 12 stitches.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 3-5sc in each st around(12)

Check: Your piece needs to look like an open cup, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1 cm) deep, and it should have 12 stitches around the edge.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 6-7sc in each st around(12)
Rnd 8(sc 4, dec) x2(10)

Note: Fill it just a little, leave the end close to the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from the two layers. Work across through both layers, 5 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the arm on.

Check: All set! Your arm is now a closed piece, around 0.6 in (1.6 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished arm
The arm, finished

Thigh (make 2)

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)
Rnd 4(sc 2, inc) x6(24)

Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across, with 24 stitches around the edge.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 5-7sc in each st around(24)
Rnd 8(sc 2, dec) x6(18)

Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the thigh on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing to the end.

Check: Great! Your thigh is now an open piece, roughly 1.3 in (3.2 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished thigh
The thigh, finished

Foot (make 2)

Worked in pea green.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnd 16 sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2inc x6(12)
Rnd 3(sc, inc) x6(18)
Rnd 4(sc 5, inc) x3(21)

Check: When you're done, it should come out as a flat circle, around 1 in (2.5 cm) across, and you'll have 21 stitches around the edge.

RoundInstructionsStitches
Rnds 5-6sc in each st around(21)
Rnd 7(sc 5, dec) x3(18)
Rnd 8(sc, dec) x6(12)

Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the foot on. Stuff it gently, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.

Check: All set! Now your foot will be an open piece around 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.

Frog amigurumi: the finished foot
The foot, finished

Putting the frog together

Since every part is done, just relax and stitch them into a single cheerful frog.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the eye bumps

1. Attach the eye bumps

At round 21, put the first one on the head, one on each side of the front. Press the open edge flat on the head, then pin it all around. With the long tail, stitch the whole way around the edge: under one stitch of the eye bump, then under the head right beside it. Just before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should finish pointing straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the head

2. Attach the head

Put it right on top of the body (its last round, 21), in the center. Hold the head's starting end (where the magic ring is) against the body, then sew around where they meet, going back and forth, and pull the yarn snug so there's no gap. It should point straight out when you're done.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the belly patch

3. Attach the belly patch

At round 12, put it on the front of the body, right in the middle. Lay the flat belly patch flat against the body, then stitch around its edge using the long tail, catching the body below with each stitch. It's going to curve along with the body, that's just what you're after.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the arms

4. Attach the arms

At round 18, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Put the straight seam against the body, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should end up lying along it, pointing down. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the feet

5. Attach the feet

Put the first one centered right at the start of the thigh (round 1). Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the thigh. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under a stitch of the foot, then under the thigh right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a little more stuffing. It should point out and up when you're done, about 60 degrees from straight out. Then repeat for the other one on the other side, mirrored.

Frog crochet assembly: attach the thighs

6. Attach the thighs

At round 6, put the first one on the body, one on each side of the front. Pin it all round while holding the open edge flat against the body. With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the thigh, then under the body right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up lying along it, pointing down. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.

Frog crochet assembly: sew the mouth

7. Sew the mouth

With dark chocolate yarn on the head, around round 12, at the front, in the middle. How: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches along, then catch the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to make a curve.

Frog crochet assembly: sew the cheeks

8. Sew the cheeks

With peach yarn on the head, around round 14, one on each side of the front. How: 2 short stitches side by side make one cheek.

Frog crochet assembly: sew the toe lines

9. Sew the toe lines

Using green yarn on the foot, near round 3, put one on each side of the front. How to: tiny stitches in a row, working up the rounds, a stitch each round.

Frog crochet assembly: hide the tails

10. Hide the tails

For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!

All done!

Your very own frog is done, and it's smiling right back at you! Every stitch is something to be proud of, since you made it with your own hands.

Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.

Prefer paper?

Get the full pattern as a printable PDF, free when you have a Crochet Pirate account. Just sign in, and your download begins right away.

More patterns like this

Questions about this pattern

What does frog mean in crochet?

Frogging means undoing your work: you pull the yarn, take out the hook, and the stitches come apart. The reason crocheters say it is that you rip it, rip it, and that sounds like a frog. If one of these frog rounds leaves you with the wrong stitch count, frog back to the last round that was correct, then work that round again.

Is this crochet frog good for beginners?

Yes. It's an Easy pattern. You work it in rounds of single crochet, with increases and decreases. There's a photo for each piece and each sewing step. When it's done, the frog stands about 5 in (13 cm) tall, made in fingering (4-ply) cotton with a 2.5 mm hook.

Can I make the frog bigger or smaller?

Yep. The stitch counts don't change, so if you use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, you'll get a bigger frog, and thinner yarn gives you a smaller one. Make your stitches tight so the stuffing won't peek through.

How big is the finished frog?

With fingering (4-ply) yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the frog ends up around 5 in (13 cm) tall. If you use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, you'll get a bigger toy, the rounds don't change.

What yarn and hook do I need?

Fingering (4-ply) cotton with a 2.5 mm hook, in 5 colors: pea green, cream, dark chocolate, peach, green. Any yarn works if you go up or down a hook size to keep the stitches tight.

Is this pattern good for beginners?

Yep, it's labeled Easy: single crochet worked in the round, plus increases and decreases, and each round has a stitch count.

Can I sell what I make?

Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.

Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.

The Crochet Pirate app

Snap a photo. Get your own pattern.

Snap whatever you love, a pet, a mug, or a drawing. Crochet Pirate turns it into an amigurumi, then guides you through each stitch with a photo at every checkpoint, a round counter, and a short video for each step.

Step 1: a photo of a small dog in a red bandana

Snap a photo

Step 2: the dog as a crochet toy, with the first rounds of its pattern

Get your pattern

Step 3: the finished crochet dog held in a hand

Crochet it