Welcome! You are about to make a sweet turtle with a blueberry dessert for a shell. It is a big toy with many pieces, so we will go one small piece at a time.
At a glance
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Finished size | about 10 in (25 cm) tall |
| Yarn | super bulky chenille (plush velvet) |
| Hook | 6 mm (US J-10) |
| Colors | Sky blue, Royal blue, Navy, White, Pea green, Black, Light pink |
| Pieces | body and shell, eye patch x2, head, front flipper x2, back flipper x2, tail, shell ruffle (front half), shell ruffle (back half), cream swirl, top blueberry x3, side blueberry, back blueberry x2, leaf (upright), leaf (leaning), head spot x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
super bulky: yarn weight 6, super bulky
- Sky blue: about 82 yd (75 m), 1 ball, 3.5 oz / 120 yd (100 g / 110 m)
- Royal blue: about 82 yd (75 m), 1 ball, 3.5 oz / 120 yd (100 g / 110 m)
- Navy: about 27 yd (25 m), 1 ball, 3.5 oz / 120 yd (100 g / 110 m)
- White: about 33 yd (30 m), 1 ball, 3.5 oz / 120 yd (100 g / 110 m)
- Pea green: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 3.5 oz / 120 yd (100 g / 110 m)
- Black: a small scrap
- Light pink: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 6 mm crochet hook: for your super bulky yarn
- 18 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
The blueberry turtle, worked in this yarn with a 6 mm (US J-10) hook, ends up around 10 in (25 cm) tall: roughly 10 sc and 11 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter here: switch to a different yarn or hook and only the size shifts.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Changing colors: clean lines between colors
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the blueberry turtle in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Blueberry turtle crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body and shell
Worked in sky blue and royal blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
Note: Color swap! At the end of round 5, on that last stitch, pause with 2 loops left on your hook, then pull the royal blue yarn through. From round 6 on, keep going with royal blue. On the inside, loosely knot the two tails together.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Your circle should come out flat and measure roughly 7.5 in (19.1 cm) across, and you'll have 60 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-15 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 17 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnds 19-20 | sc in each st around | (48) |
Check: Yours should look like an open cup, about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide and 2.9 in (7.3 cm) deep, with 48 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 21 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 22 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 23 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 24 | sc in each st around | (36) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 26 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed piece, around 7.5 in (19.4 cm) wide and 7 in (17.8 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 27 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 29 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! At this point, your body and shell ought to be one firmly stuffed, completely closed piece, measuring roughly 7.5 in (18.7 cm) across and 7.5 in (19.3 cm) tall.
Eye patch (make 2)
Worked in navy.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 7 sc in magic ring | (7) |
Note: Slip stitch in the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it goes on the head as you make it, right before the eyes go in.
Check: Great! Your eye patch is now a flat circle, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Head
Worked in sky blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 4.5 in (11.5 cm) wide, and the edge should have 36 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-10 | sc in each st around | (36) |
Note: Now for the eyes, start with the face. Grab those eye patches you already made. On round 9, pin them to the front, one on each side. Then poke each safety eye through the center of its patch and into the head, right between rounds 9 and 10. Step back and take a look, then pop the backs on from the inside: after they click, they're set for good. Before you lose your chance to get inside, stitch around each eye patch's edge using its long tail.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-12 | sc in each st around | (36) |
Check: Yours should look like an open cup about 4.5 in (11.5 cm) wide and 2.2 in (5.5 cm) deep, with 36 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 13 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should look like a stuffed piece about 5 in (13.1 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with an opening of 18 stitches left.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 17 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! At this point, your head ought to be a completely closed, solidly stuffed piece, roughly 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide by 4.4 in (11.3 cm) tall.
Front flipper (make 2)
Worked in sky blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across and 0.3 in (0.8 cm) deep, with 15 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that measures about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across and 1.7 in (4.3 cm) deep, and it should have 12 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-9 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 2, dec) x3 | (9) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the final part by the opening with nothing in it, so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 4 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the front flipper on along this seam.
Check: All set! Your front flipper is now a closed piece, roughly 2.2 in (5.5 cm) wide and 3.1 in (7.9 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Back flipper (make 2)
Worked in sky blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across and 0.3 in (0.8 cm) deep, with 15 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that measures about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across and 1.7 in (4.3 cm) deep, and it should have 12 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-9 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 2, dec) x3 | (9) |
Note: Stuff it lightly, keep the last bit near the opening empty so it can lie flat. Press the opening flat, with the stitches of the two layers lined up. Crochet across through both layers, 4 sc, one through each pair of stitches, to close it in a straight seam. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll sew the back flipper on along this seam.
Check: Great! Your back flipper is now a closed piece, around 2.2 in (5.5 cm) wide and 3.1 in (7.9 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Tail
Worked in sky blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
Check: Your piece should come out like an open cup, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) deep, with 6 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (6) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch. Then, leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and cut the yarn. You'll use it to sew the tail on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: Great! Your tail is now an open piece, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide and 1.6 in (4.1 cm) long, and you've got a long yarn tail.
Shell ruffle (front half)
Worked in white.
Note: Ch 34. Make a slip knot and chain 34. This piece is flat: you crochet back and forth along that chain in rows, turning at the end of each one.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 33 | (33) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, (sc, inc) x16, sc | (49) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, sc 49 | (49) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your shell ruffle (front half) is now a flat trapezoid, roughly 19.5 in (49 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Shell ruffle (back half)
Worked in white.
Note: Ch 34. Make a slip knot and chain 34. This piece is flat: you crochet back and forth along that chain in rows, turning at the end of each one.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 33 | (33) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, (sc, inc) x16, sc | (49) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, sc 49 | (49) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your back half of the shell ruffle ought to be a flat trapezoid now, roughly 19.5 in (49 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, plus a long yarn tail.
Cream swirl
Worked in white.
Note: Ch 31. Make a slip knot, then chain 31. This piece is flat: you work back and forth along that chain in rows, turning at the end of each row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 30 | (30) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, (sc, inc) x15 | (45) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, sc 45 | (45) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your cream swirl ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 17.5 in (45 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Top blueberry (make 3)
Worked in navy.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, roughly 1.7 in (4.4 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) high, and you'll leave a gap of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: Done! Your top blueberry should now be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece about 1.5 in (3.9 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Side blueberry
Worked in navy.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, roughly 1.7 in (4.4 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) high, and you'll leave a gap of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: Done! Your side blueberry should now be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece about 1.5 in (3.9 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Back blueberry (make 2)
Worked in navy.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, roughly 1.7 in (4.4 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) high, and you'll leave a gap of 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: Done! Your back blueberry should now be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece about 1.5 in (3.9 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Leaf (upright)
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (8) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 2, dec) x2 | (6) |
Note: Press the opening flat, with the stitches of the two layers lined up. Crochet across through both layers, 3 sc, one through each pair of stitches, to close it in a straight seam. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll sew the leaf (upright) on along this seam.
Check: All set! Your upright leaf should now be a flat double layer, roughly 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.5 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Leaf (leaning)
Worked in pea green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) across and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (8) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 2, dec) x2 | (6) |
Note: Press the opening flat, with the stitches of the two layers lined up. Crochet across through both layers, 3 sc, one through each pair of stitches, to close it in a straight seam. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll sew the leaf (leaning) on along this seam.
Check: All set! Your leaning leaf should now be a flat double layer, roughly 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.5 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a long yarn tail and a straight seam at its end.
Head spot (make 2)
Worked in royal blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Your head spot is now a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Putting the blueberry turtle together
Once every piece is done, we'll go step by step and join them into a single cheerful turtle.
1. Attach the head spots
Put the first one on the head at round 12, one on each side of the front. Pin that flat head spot flat against the head, then stitch around its edge using the long tail, grabbing the head below with each stitch. It'll curve to hug the head, that's just what you want. After that, do the same with the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
2. Attach the head
At round 13, in the middle of the front, set it on the body and shell. Stand the head upright beside the body and shell, then pin it. Where they meet, sew a few stitches, going back and forth between them, so it holds.
3. Attach the front flippers
At round 9, put the first one on the body and shell, one on each side of the front. Keep the straight seam against the body and shell, then sew back and forth along it through both pieces. It should stick straight out from under the shell and lie flat on the table. Next, do the same with the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Attach the back flippers
At round 9, put the first one on the body and shell, one on each side, near the back. Keep the straight seam against the body and shell, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should stick straight out from under the shell, flat on the table. Next, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
5. Attach the tail
At round 11, put it on the body and shell, in the middle, at the back. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body and shell. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one stitch of the tail, then under the body and shell right beside it. Right before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out.
6. Attach the shell ruffle (front half)
At round 14, put it on the body and shell, in the middle, at the front. Take the shell ruffle (front half)'s first row (the chain edge) and hold it against the body and shell so the rest sticks out. Sew only along that edge, back and forth, so it stays firm. It should point out and down when you're done, about 50 degrees from straight out.
7. Attach the shell ruffle (back half)
At round 14, put it on the body and shell, in the middle, at the back. Take the first row (the chain edge) of the shell ruffle (back half) and hold it against the body and shell so the rest sticks out. Sew back and forth along just that edge, so it holds firm. It should point out and down when you're done, around 50 degrees from straight out.
8. Attach the cream swirl
At round 25, put it on the body and shell, front and center. Keep the cream swirl's first row (the chain edge) up against the body and shell so the rest sticks out, then sew just along that edge, going back and forth, to make it stay firm. It should point out and down when you're done, around 60 degrees from straight out.
9. Attach the top blueberries
At round 27, you put them on the body and shell, spaced out evenly the whole way around (the first one sits at the front, just a bit toward the toy's left). First pin every one so the spaces stay even. Then for each: press the closed end of the top blueberry up against the body and shell, and stitch around the spot where they meet, after that tug the yarn tight so no gap is left. It ought to finish up sticking straight out.
10. Attach the side blueberry
At round 21, put it on the body and shell, at the front, just a bit to the toy's left. Hold the side blueberry's closed end against the body and shell, then sew around where they meet, and pull the yarn snug so no gap is left. It should point straight out when you're done.
11. Attach the back blueberries
At round 22, put the first one on the body and shell, one on each side, near the back. Keep the closed end of the back blueberry against the body and shell, then sew around where they meet, and pull the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done. After that, do the same with the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
12. Attach the leaf (upright)
At round 28, put it on the back, slightly to the toy's left, on the body and shell. Pinch that end into a curve first, fold it almost in half, with the hollow facing front, then sew it on curved, not flat, holding the seam against the body and shell and stitching along it through both pieces, back and forth. That way the leaf (upright) cups like a real one and holds itself out. Turn it so its front side faces front. It should point out and backward when you're done, about 20 degrees from straight out.
13. Attach the leaf (leaning)
At round 27, put it on the toy's left side, on the body and shell. Pinch that end into a curve first, fold it almost in half, with the hollow on its front side, then sew it on curved like that, not flat: the leaf (leaning) will cup like a real one and hold itself out. Hold the seam against the body and shell, and sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. Turn it so its front side faces front. It should point out and toward the toy's left, about 50 degrees from straight out.
14. Sew the smile
Using black yarn on the head, near round 7, at the front, in the middle. Here's how: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches over, then catch the middle of that long stitch and tug it down one round to shape a curve.
15. Sew the cheeks
With light pink yarn on the head, around round 6, one on each side of the front. How: 2 short stitches side by side make one cheek.
16. Sew the small head spot
Around round 14, at the middle of the front, using royal blue yarn on the head. Here's how: over those same 2 stitches, work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other, until it looks nice and plump.
17. Sew the shell line 1
With navy yarn on the body and shell, around round 19, at the front, in the middle. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
18. Sew the shell line 2
With navy yarn on the body and shell, around round 19, one on each side of the front. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
19. Sew the shell line 3
With navy yarn on the body and shell, near round 19, one on each side. How: tiny stitches one after another, going up the rounds, a stitch per round.
20. Sew the shell line 4
With navy yarn on the body and shell, around round 19, one on each side, toward the back. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
21. Sew the shell line 5
With navy yarn on the body and shell, around round 19, one on each side, toward the back. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
22. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
Your blueberry turtle is done, you did it! Squeeze it tight and feel proud, since you made every single part of it with your own two hands.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is the finished blueberry turtle?
The blueberry turtle ends up around 10 in (25 cm) tall when you use super bulky yarn and a 6 mm (US J-10) hook. Use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
Super bulky chenille (plush velvet) with a 6 mm (US J-10) hook, in 7 colors: sky blue, royal blue, navy, white, pea green, black, light pink. Any yarn works if you go up or down a hook size to keep the stitches tight.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's marked Advanced: lots of pieces and careful assembly. Take it one piece at a time, every round has its stitch count and a photo to check against.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
