Hi there! You're going to crochet a chubby little Thanksgiving turkey, and no prior skills are needed. We'll take it one tiny step at a time, and each stitch brings you nearer to a snuggly pal.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 6 in (15 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | Brown, Tan, Sunny yellow, Red, Orange, Mustard, Terracotta, Brick red |
| Pieces | body, head, beak, wattle, wing x2, left foot toes x3, right foot toes x3, center tail feather, orange tail feather x2, red tail feather x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- Brown: about 44 yd (40 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Tan: about 16 yd (15 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Sunny yellow: about 14 yd (13 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Red: about 21 yd (19 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Orange: about 33 yd (30 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Mustard: a small scrap
- Terracotta: a small scrap
- Brick red: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 8 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
When you use this yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the turkey ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall. That's roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter here, switch to a different yarn or hook, and only the size will change.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the turkey in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Turkey crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across, and you should have 48 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 9-16 | sc in each st around | (48) |
Check: What you want is an open cup, roughly 3 in (7.6 cm) across and 1.4 in (3.6 cm) deep, with 48 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 17 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 19 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 20 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should look like a stuffed piece about 3.4 in (8.7 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.7 cm) tall, with an opening of 18 stitches left.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 23 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 24 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Now your body ought to be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece, roughly 3.1 in (7.9 cm) wide and 3.1 in (7.9 cm) tall.
Head
Worked in tan.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) wide, and it should have 36 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 7-10 | sc in each st around | (36) |
Note: It's eye time! On the smoothest side, that's the face, since the little jog where laps start belongs at the back, put the safety eyes in between round 9 and round 10, leaving 6 stitches between them. Before you snap the backs on inside, take a look from a distance: after they click, they're on forever.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-12 | sc in each st around | (36) |
Check: Your piece needs to come out looking like an open cup, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) deep, and you should have 36 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 13 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a stuffed shape around 2.6 in (6.6 cm) wide and 1.7 in (4.4 cm) tall, and you'll leave 18 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 16 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 17 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All right! Now your head ought to be a fully closed piece, stuffed nice and firm, around 2.2 in (5.7 cm) tall and 2.2 in (5.7 cm) wide.
Beak
Worked in sunny yellow.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the beak on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: Great job! Now your beak should be an open piece around 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, and you should have a long yarn tail.
Wattle
Worked in red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat circle, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide, and 9 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (9) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc, dec) x3 | (6) |
| Rnd 6 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your wattle is now a fully closed piece, around 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) tall.
Wing (make 2)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
Check: When you're done, it should be a flat circle, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide, and you'll have 14 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that's roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) across and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep, with 14 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 4, dec) x2 | (10) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 5 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the wing on.
Check: All right! Your wing is now a flat double layer, around 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and 1.6 in (4 cm) long, pressed flat, not stuffed, with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Left foot toes (make 3)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-4 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, around 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 6 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! The toes on your left foot are now a firmly stuffed, completely closed piece, measuring roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) tall.
Right foot toes (make 3)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnds 2-4 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out as a stuffed shape, around 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.6 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 6 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! The toes on your right foot should be a fully closed piece now, firmly stuffed, around 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.4 cm) tall.
Center tail feather
Worked in sunny yellow.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 8, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-9 | sc in each st around | (20) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, dec) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 11 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: When you're done, it should be shaped like an open cup, roughly 1.3 in (3.2 cm) across and 1.6 in (4 cm) deep, and you'll have 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnds 14-15 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 17 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch. Then, leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) and cut the yarn, that's what you'll use to sew the center tail feather on. Push the stuffing gently to the tip using the back of your hook to stuff it softly.
Check: Done! Your center tail feather should now be an open piece about 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 3.2 in (8.1 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Orange tail feather (make 2)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 8, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-8 | sc in each st around | (20) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 8, dec) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 10 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: What you want is something that looks like an open cup, roughly 1.3 in (3.2 cm) across and 1.4 in (3.6 cm) deep, and you should have 18 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 11 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 13 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 15 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 16 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew on the orange tail feather. Push the stuffing gently to the end with the back of your hook to stuff it softly.
Check: All set! That orange tail feather ought to be an open piece now, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 2.8 in (7.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Red tail feather (make 2)
Worked in red.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 8, inc) x2 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-7 | sc in each st around | (20) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 8, dec) x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 9 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: Yours should look like an open cup, around 1.3 in (3.2 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3.1 cm) deep, with 18 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 10 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnd 11 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnd 13 | sc in each st around | (14) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 5, dec) x2 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and you'll use it to sew on the red tail feather. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All set! Your red tail feather is now an open piece, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 2.4 in (6.1 cm) long, and it has a long yarn tail.
Putting the turkey together
All the parts are done, so take a moment, spread them out, and let's stitch your turkey up together, step by step.
1. Attach the beak
At round 7, put it on the head, front and center. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the head. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under a stitch of the beak, then under the head right beside it. Right before the gap closes, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done.
2. Attach the wattle
At round 7, put it on the head, front and center. Press the wattle's closed end to the head, then stitch around the spot where they meet, and tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should sit along it, pointing down.
3. Attach the head
At round 21, put it on the body, front and center. Take the head's starting end (the magic ring spot) and hold it to the body, then stitch around the join, back and forth, and tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should sit pointing out and up, roughly 20 degrees off straight out.
4. Attach the wings
At round 18, put the first one on the body, one on each side. Hold the straight seam up against the body, then sew along it through both pieces, going back and forth. It should point out and down when you're done, about 70 degrees from straight out. After that, do the same thing for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
5. Attach the left foot toes
At round 5 you put them on the body, evenly spaced over the front: number one in the center front, and the final one at the front, slightly toward the toy's left. First pin every one so the spacing looks even. Then, one by one: press the closed tip of the left foot toes to the body and stitch around the spot where they meet, after that tug the yarn tight so no gap remains. It ought to finish up resting along it, aimed downward.
6. Attach the right foot toes
At round 5 you put them on the body, spaced out evenly over the front: the first sits at the front, slightly toward the toy's right, and the last sits at the front, in the center. Pin every one down first, so the spaces come out even. Then for each: press the closed end of the right foot toes to the body, stitch around the spot where they meet, and tug the yarn tight so no gap is left. It ought to finish up resting along it, aimed downward.
7. Attach the center tail feather
At round 22, in the middle of the back, put it on the body. Pin it all round, holding the open edge flat against the body. With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the center tail feather, then under the body right next to it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out.
8. Attach the orange tail feathers
At round 21, put the first one on the body, one on each side, near the back. Keep the open edge flat against the body, then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the orange tail feather, and then under the body right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done. Next, do the same for the other one on the opposite side, mirrored.
9. Attach the red tail feathers
Place the first one on the body at round 20, one on each side, toward the back. Hold the open edge flat against the body and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the red tail feather, then under the body right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing out and toward the toy's left, about 35 degrees from straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
10. Sew the yellow feather crease, front
With mustard yarn on the center tail feather, around round 9, at the front, in the middle. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
11. Sew the yellow feather crease, back
With mustard yarn on the center tail feather, around round 9, at the back, in the middle. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
12. Sew the orange feather crease, front
Using terracotta yarn on the orange tail feather, near round 8, at the front, in the center. Here's how: little stitches right next to each other, working up the rounds, a single stitch each round.
13. Sew the orange feather crease, back
Using terracotta yarn on that orange tail feather, near round 8, at the back, right in the middle. Here's how: little stitches, one after the other, working up the rounds, a single stitch each round.
14. Sew the red feather crease, front
Using brick red yarn on the red tail feather, near round 7, at the front, in the center. How to do it: little stitches in a row, heading up the rounds, one stitch each round.
15. Sew the red feather crease, back
Using brick red yarn, on the red tail feather, near round 7, at the back, in the center. How to do it: little stitches in a row, heading up the rounds, one stitch each round.
16. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You made a whole turkey with your own two hands, you did it! Give it a proud squeeze, then find it a nice spot at the table.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How is the turkey's tail fan made?
Five feathers make up the fan: one yellow in the center, plus two orange and two red. Every one begins as a tiny oval made around a chain of 5, then gets worked up into a long open shape. You stuff it soft, and sew it to the back of the body along its open edge, the middle one sits highest. On each side of every feather, a row of stitches in a darker shade shows the crease.
How are the turkey's feet made?
Every foot has three little toes. Each toe is a tiny tube of 6 stitches, stuffed and closed. Put them across the front of the body at round 5. Three on each side, spread out evenly so they fan like a turkey's foot.
How do the beak and wattle go on?
At round 7, both go on the front of the head. The yellow beak is a little open cone, sewn on by its open edge, and it points straight out. The red wattle is a tiny closed tube, sewn on by its closed end, so it hangs down next to it.
How big is the finished turkey?
In DK (light worsted) yarn with a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the turkey ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall. If you use a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
Using DK (light worsted) cotton and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, you'll need 8 colors: brown, tan, sunny yellow, red, orange, mustard, terracotta, and brick red. If you pick a different yarn, that's fine, just switch to a bigger or smaller hook so your stitches stay tight.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
