This free crochet chicken pattern makes a plump little hen, and you don't need any experience at all. We'll go one small step at a time, and it works up faster than you'd think.
At a glance
| Skill level | Easy |
| Finished size | about 7 in (17 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | White, Mustard, Red, Light pink, Cream, Orange |
| Pieces | body (head and body in one), beak, wattle lobe x2, comb, middle lobe, comb, side lobe x2, wing x2, foot x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- White: about 93 yd (85 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Mustard: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Red: about 10 yd (9 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Light pink: a small scrap
- Cream: a small scrap
- Orange: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 10 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
When you use this yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the chicken ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall. That's roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter, if you pick a different yarn or hook, only the size will change.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the chicken in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Chicken crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Body (head and body in one)
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 10, inc) x6 | (72) |
Check: Your circle needs to come out flat, roughly 4.5 in (11.5 cm) wide, and you should have 72 stitches around the outside edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 13-24 | sc in each st around | (72) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 10, dec) x6 | (66) |
| Rnd 26 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Note: Time for the eyes! Place the safety eyes between rounds 25 and 26, leaving 9 stitches in between, on the side that's smoothest (that's the face, the small jog where rounds begin belongs at the back). Before you snap the backs on inside, take a look from far away: after they click, they're on for good.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 27 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Check: Your piece ought to look like an open cup, roughly 4.5 in (11.5 cm) across and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) deep, with 66 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 28 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
| Rnds 29-30 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 31 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 32 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 33 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 34 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 35 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 36 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 37 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 38 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should look like a stuffed piece about 5 in (13.1 cm) wide and 5 in (13.1 cm) tall, with an opening of 24 stitches left.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 39 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 40 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 41 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: Great! Your body, head and body together as one, should be a solidly stuffed, completely closed piece, roughly 5.5 in (13.9 cm) tall and 5 in (12.9 cm) wide now.
Beak
Worked in mustard.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, around 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.8 cm) deep, with 12 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the beak on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All set! Now your beak ought to be an open piece around 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Wattle lobe (make 2)
Worked in red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across, and you should have 8 stitches around the outside edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (8) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, dec) x2 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your wattle lobe is now a fully closed piece, roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Comb, middle lobe
Worked in red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 12 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-5 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a little stuffed shape, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, and you'll leave 12 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | (sc 2, dec) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc, dec) x3 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! That middle lobe of your comb ought to be a fully closed piece now, stuffed firmly, measuring around 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide by 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall.
Comb, side lobe (make 2)
Worked in red.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
Check: What you should end up with is a flat circle, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide, and 9 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (9) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should end up as a stuffed shape, around 0.6 in (1.6 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 9 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | (sc, dec) x3 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your comb side lobe ought to be a firmly stuffed, fully closed piece now, around 0.6 in (1.6 cm) wide and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) tall.
Wing (make 2)
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 18 stitches going around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-7 | sc in each st around | (18) |
Check: Your piece needs to look like an open cup, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) across and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep, and you should have 18 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-9 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 4, dec) x3 | (15) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Note: Flatten the opening so the stitches from both layers match up. Then work across through both layers, 6 sc, working one into each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this is what you'll use to sew the wing on along that seam.
Check: All set! Your wing should now be a flat double layer, about 1.4 in (3.5 cm) wide and 1.9 in (4.7 cm) long, pressed flat, not stuffed, with a long yarn tail and a straight seam at its end.
Foot (make 2)
Worked in mustard.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x3 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (20) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the foot on. Stuff it gently, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All right! Now your foot should be an open piece, around 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.2 cm) long, with a long yarn tail left over.
Putting the chicken together
Once every part is done, go slow and stitch them on to make your chicken come alive.
1. Attach the beak
At round 23, in the middle of the front, put it on the body (head and body in one). Pin it all around, holding the open edge flat against the body (head and body in one). With the long tail, sew all around the edge: under one stitch of the beak, then right next to it under the body (head and body in one). Right before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should point straight out in the end.
2. Attach the wattle lobes
At round 21, on the front, in the middle, put the first one onto the body (head and body together). Press the closed end of the wattle lobe up against the body (head and body together), then stitch around where they meet, and after that tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It ought to finish up resting along it, aimed downward. After that, repeat for the second one on the opposite side, flipped.
3. Attach the comb, middle lobe
Place it right on the top of the body (head and body in one) (its last round, 41), centered. Hold the closed end of the comb, middle lobe against the body (head and body in one) and sew around where they touch, then pull the yarn snug so there's no gap. It should end up pointing straight out.
4. Attach the comb, side lobes
Place the first one on the body (head and body in one) at round 38, one on each side. Hold the closed end of the comb, side lobe against the body (head and body in one) and sew around where they touch, then pull the yarn snug so there's no gap. It should end up pointing out and toward the toy's left, about 25 degrees from straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
5. Attach the wings
At round 23, put the first one on the body (head and body in one), one on each side. Put the straight seam against the body (head and body in one), then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point out and down when you're done, about 60 degrees from straight out. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
6. Attach the feet
At round 8, put the first one onto the body (head and body in one), one on each side of the front. Pin it all round with the open edge held flat against the body (head and body in one). With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the foot, then under the body (head and body in one) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out. Then, mirrored, do the same for the other one on the other side.
7. Sew the cheeks
With light pink yarn on the body (head and body as one), near round 23, one on each side of the front. How: 2 short stitches next to each other make one cheek.
8. Sew the wing feather line, front
With cream yarn on the wing, around round 4, on the toy's left side. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
9. Sew the wing feather line, back
With cream yarn on the wing, around round 4, on the toy's left side. How: small stitches one after another, going up the rounds, one stitch per round.
10. Sew the toe line, inner
Around round 3, on the toy's left side, with orange yarn on the foot. How: little stitches in a row, going up the rounds, a stitch each round.
11. Sew the toe line, outer
Around round 3, on the toy's left side, with orange yarn on the foot. How: little stitches in a row, going up the rounds, a stitch each round.
12. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You made it! Stitch by stitch, with your own two hands, your very own chicken is done, and that's something to be proud of.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
Is this crochet chicken pattern free?
Yes. This free crochet chicken pattern is all here on the page, every round with its stitch count and a photo of every piece, and the printable PDF is free too with a Crochet Pirate account.
How big is the finished chicken?
With DK (light worsted) yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the chicken ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall. Use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
With DK (light worsted) cotton and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, use 6 colors: white, mustard, red, light pink, cream, orange. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, any yarn will work.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
Yep, it's labeled Easy: single crochet worked in the round, plus increases and decreases, and each round has a stitch count.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
