New to crochet? Great, this little round owl is a sweet first project to try. We'll take it one small step at a time, and each stitch you do matters.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 6 in (15 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | Cream, Mustard, Brown, Orange |
| Pieces | face mask, eye ring (iris) x2, body (head and body in one), belly patch, beak, ear x2, inner ear x2, wing x2, left foot toes x3, right foot toes x3 |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- Cream: about 21 yd (19 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Mustard: a small scrap
- Brown: Around 109 yd (100 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Orange: about 11 yd (10 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 18 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
With this yarn, Owl ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall when you use a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook: roughly 22 rounds and 20 sc per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter, a different hook or yarn just changes how big it turns out.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the owl in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Owl crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Face mask
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 10. Make a slip knot and chain 10. That little chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet around it the whole way.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, sc 8, 3 sc in skipped ch | (22) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 8, inc x3, sc 8, inc x3 | (28) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 8, (sc, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc, inc) x3 | (34) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a little flat oval, with 34 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (40) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 9, inc) x4 | (44) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 10, inc) x4 | (48) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: while you make it, it goes on the body (head and body in one), right before the eyes go in.
Check: All right! Now your face mask ought to be a flat oval, roughly 3.8 in (9.7 cm) long and 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and it should have a long yarn tail.
Eye ring (iris) (make 2)
Worked in mustard.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: while you make it, it goes on the body (head and body in one), right before the eyes go in.
Check: Done! Your eye ring (iris) should now be a flat circle about 1.1 in (2.9 cm) across with a long yarn tail.
Body (head and body in one)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 10, inc) x6 | (72) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 11, inc) x6 | (78) |
Check: What you should get is a flat circle, roughly 4.9 in (12.4 cm) wide, and around the edge you'll have 78 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 14-21 | sc in each st around | (78) |
| Rnd 22 | (sc 11, dec) x6 | (72) |
| Rnds 23-24 | sc in each st around | (72) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 10, dec) x6 | (66) |
| Rnds 26-27 | sc in each st around | (66) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
Check: What you want is a shape like an open cup, roughly 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across and 2.2 in (5.5 cm) deep, with 60 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 29-30 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 31 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnds 32-33 | sc in each st around | (54) |
Note: Eye time, first comes the face. Grab the face mask and the eye ring (iris)s you made before. Put the face mask on round 28, in the front, in the middle, and pin it there. Then pin the eye ring (iris)s on top. Push each safety eye through the eye ring (iris), then the face mask, and into the body (head and body in one) between round 32 and round 33, leaving 2 stitches between them. Take a look from far away, then snap the backs on inside: once they click, they stay forever. While you can still reach inside, sew around the edge of each face mask and eye ring (iris) with its long tail, starting with the bottom one.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 34 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 35 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 36 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 37 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 38 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 39 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 40 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed piece, around 5 in (13.2 cm) wide and 5.5 in (13.9 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 18 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 41 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 42 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your body, head and body together as one, should now be a firmly stuffed, completely closed piece, roughly 5.5 in (14.6 cm) tall and 5 in (12.9 cm) wide.
Belly patch
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 4. Make a slip knot and chain 4. That short chain is the spine of the oval, you'll crochet all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 2, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, 3 sc in skipped ch | (10) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x3 | (16) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 2, (sc, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc, inc) x3 | (22) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (28) |
Check: What you want is a little flat oval, with 28 stitches going all the way around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 2, (sc 3, inc) x3 | (34) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 2, (sc 7, inc) x4 | (38) |
| Rnd 7 | sc 2, (sc 8, inc) x4 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | sc 2, (sc 9, inc) x4 | (46) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! That belly patch ought to be a flat oval now, roughly 3.4 in (8.6 cm) long and 2.9 in (7.3 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Beak
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the beak on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All set! Now your beak should be an open piece, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, and you'll have a long yarn tail left.
Ear (make 2)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 4, inc) x2 | (12) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
Check: What you want is something that looks like an open cup, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, with 14 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 7 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Note: Lay the opening flat so the stitches from both layers match up. Work across through both layers, 7 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to seal it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the ear on.
Check: All set! Your ear should be a flat double layer now, around 1.3 in (3.2 cm) wide and 1.2 in (3.1 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Inner ear (make 2)
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. This piece is flat, so you crochet back and forth along that chain in rows, turning at the end of each row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2 | (3) |
Check: What you get should be a flat rectangle, around 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.4 cm) tall, with 3 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc | (2) |
| Row 5 | ch 1, turn, dec | (1) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your inner ear ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.8 in (2 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Wing (make 2)
Worked in brown.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 11, inc) x2 | (26) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 1.6 in (4.1 cm) across, with 26 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 6-10 | sc in each st around | (26) |
Check: Yours should look like an open cup, roughly 1.6 in (4.1 cm) wide and 1.1 in (2.7 cm) deep, with 26 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 11 | sc in each st around | (26) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 11, dec) x2 | (24) |
| Rnd 13 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 4, dec) x4 | (20) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 3, dec) x4 | (16) |
Note: Flatten the opening, lining up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 8 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the wing on.
Check: Great! Now your wing should be a flat double layer, around 2 in (5 cm) wide and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long, pressed flat, not stuffed, with a straight seam at the end and a long yarn tail.
Left foot toes (make 3)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across, and you should have 8 stitches around the outside edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, about 12 in (30 cm). You'll use it to sew on the left foot toes. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! The toes for your left foot are now an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Right foot toes (make 3)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: Your circle needs to be flat and measure roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across, and you should have 8 stitches around the outside edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 3-4 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut your yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the right foot toes on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! The toes on your right foot are now an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Putting the owl together
Once each of your pieces is done, we can stitch them on one at a time and see your owl start to take shape.
1. Attach the belly patch
At round 14, on the front and in the middle, put it on the body (head and body in one). Lay the flat belly patch flat against the body (head and body in one), with its long side going toward the toy's left, then stitch around its edge using the long tail, grabbing the body (head and body in one) below with each stitch. It's going to curve along the body (head and body in one), that's just what you want.
2. Attach the beak
Put it onto the face mask, near round 2. Keep the open edge flat against the mask, then pin it all around. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under a stitch of the beak, then under the face mask right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when you're done.
3. Attach the inner ears
Place the first one on the ear at round 5, at the front, in the middle. Pin the flat inner ear flat on the ear, and sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the ear underneath with every stitch. It will curve to follow the ear, that's what you want. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Attach the ears
At round 35, put the first one on the body (head and body in one), one on each side. Put the straight seam up against the body (head and body in one), then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point straight out when you're done. Next, do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
5. Attach the wings
At round 25, put the first one on the body (head and body in one), one on each side. Put the straight seam against the body (head and body in one) and stitch along it through both pieces, back and forth. It should point out and down, about 70 degrees from straight out. Then do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
6. Attach the left foot toes
At round 8, they go on the body (head and body in one), spread out evenly along that side: the first sits at the front, a little to the toy's left, and the last sits at the front, a little to the toy's left. Pin them all down first, so the gaps come out even. Then for each one: press the open edge flat against the body (head and body in one) and pin it all the way round. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one stitch of the left foot toes, then under the body (head and body in one) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up lying along it, pointing forwards.
7. Attach the right foot toes
At round 8, they go onto the body (head and body in one), spaced evenly down that side: the first sits at the front, slightly to the toy's right, and the last sits at the front, slightly to the toy's right. Pin every one first, so the gaps come out even. Then for each: press the open edge flat against the body (head and body in one) and pin all around it. With the long tail, stitch the whole way around the edge: under one stitch of the right foot toes, then under the body (head and body in one) right beside it. Just before the gap shuts, add a final bit of stuffing. It should finish lying along it, pointing forwards.
8. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
You made it, an entire owl, crafted with your own two hands! Give it a squeeze, find it a nice spot to perch, and take pride in each stitch.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How big is this crochet owl?
About 6 in (15 cm) tall in DK (light worsted) cotton on a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook. A thicker yarn and a bigger hook make a bigger owl; the rounds stay the same.
Is the owl pattern hard to crochet?
This is an Intermediate pattern. You work the head and body as one piece, in single crochet rounds. Then you sew on small parts: the face mask, eye rings, belly, beak, ears, wings, and toes. If you know how to make a magic ring, increase, and decrease, you can crochet it. And there's a photo for each piece and each sewing step.
How big is the finished owl?
The owl ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall when you use DK (light worsted) yarn and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook. If you grab a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, you'll get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
For this, use DK (light worsted) cotton and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, in 4 colors: cream, mustard, brown, orange. If you move up or down a hook size to keep your stitches tight, any yarn will do.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
