Hi there! You're going to crochet a plump tiny penguin, step by simple step, and we'll stay right with you all along.
At a glance
| Skill level | Intermediate |
| Finished size | about 7 in (17 cm) tall |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted) cotton |
| Hook | 3.5 mm (US E-4) |
| Colors | White, Black, Orange, Sky blue, Blue, Light pink, Navy |
| Pieces | face patch x2, belly, body and head, beak, flipper x2, foot x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
DK (light worsted): yarn weight 3, light
- White: about 27 yd (25 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Black: about 93 yd (85 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Orange: about 9 yd (8 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m)
- Sky blue: Roughly 8 yd (7 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m), just for the fish.
- Blue: about 7 yd (6 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 137 yd (50 g / 125 m), only for the fish
- Light pink: a small scrap
- Navy: just a little piece, for the fish only
Tools and notions
- 3.5 mm crochet hook: for DK (light worsted) cotton yarn
- 12 mm black safety eyes: 1 pair
- 6 mm black safety eyes: 1
- 6 mm black safety eyes: 1
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
With this yarn, the penguin ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall using a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook: roughly 20 sc and 22 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the penguin in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Penguin crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Face patch (make 2)
Worked in white.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.9 cm) wide, and the edge should have 18 stitches going around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: while you make it, it goes on the body and head, right before the eyes go in.
Check: All set! Now your face patch ought to be a flat circle, roughly 2.2 in (5.7 cm) across, plus a long yarn tail.
Belly
Worked in white.
Note: Ch 9. Start with a slip knot, then make 9 chains. That little chain forms the oval's spine, you'll work around the whole thing.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, sc 7, 3 sc in skipped ch | (20) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 7, inc x3, sc 7, inc x3 | (26) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 7, (sc, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc, inc) x3 | (32) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 7, (sc 2, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc 2, inc) x3 | (38) |
Check: What you should have is a little flat oval, and around its edge there are 38 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | sc 7, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc 3, inc) x3 | (44) |
| Rnd 6 | sc 7, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc 4, inc) x3 | (50) |
| Rnd 7 | sc 7, (sc 5, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc 5, inc) x3 | (56) |
| Rnd 8 | sc 7, (sc 6, inc) x3, sc 7, (sc 6, inc) x3 | (62) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: while you make it, it goes on the body and head, right before the eyes go in.
Check: All set! Now your belly ought to be a flat oval, roughly 4.4 in (11.1 cm) long and 3.9 in (9.9 cm) wide, and it should have a long yarn tail.
Body and head
Worked in black.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Yours ought to come out as a flat circle, roughly 3.7 in (9.5 cm) wide, with 60 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-24 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 25 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnds 26-27 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 28 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 3.7 in (9.5 cm) across and 2.9 in (7.3 cm) deep, with 60 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 29 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
| Rnds 30-32 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Note: Eye time, start with the face. Grab the belly and face patches you did before. On round 31, pin the face patches, one on either side of the front, and put the belly at the front, in the middle, on round 20. Between round 31 and round 32, push each safety eye through the belly and the face patch and into the body and head, leaving 10 stitches between them. Take a look from far away, then click the backs on inside: after they snap, they're on for good. Sew around the edge of each face patch and belly with its long tail while you can still get inside, starting with the bottom one.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 33-34 | sc in each st around | (66) |
| Rnd 35 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 36 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 37 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 38 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 39 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 40 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 41 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 42 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 43 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you make should come out like a stuffed item, around 4.4 in (11.3 cm) wide by 6 in (15.1 cm) tall, and you'll leave an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 44 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 45 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 46 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All finished! Your head and body are now one firmly stuffed piece, completely closed off, measuring around 4.3 in (11 cm) wide by 6.5 in (16.4 cm) tall.
Beak
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the beak on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All set! Now your beak ought to be an open piece around 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Flipper (make 2)
Worked in black.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide, and it should have 15 stitches around the outer edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 3, dec) x3 | (12) |
Check: What you want is a little open cup, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) across and 0.8 in (2.1 cm) deep, and it should have 12 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 8-9 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 4, dec) x2 | (10) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the final section by the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 5 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is what you'll use to sew the flipper on.
Check: All set! Your flipper is now a closed piece, roughly 1.1 in (2.7 cm) wide and 1.6 in (4 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Foot (make 2)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 6. Make a slip knot, then chain 6. That little chain acts as the oval's spine, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, 3 sc in skipped ch | (14) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x3 | (20) |
Check: What you want is a tiny flat oval, and around its edge there should be 20 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (20) |
| Rnd 4 | sc 4, dec x3, sc 4, dec x3 | (14) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: What you want is a little stuffed shape, roughly 1.3 in (3.4 cm) across and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) high, and you'll leave 14 stitches open.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 5 | dec x7 | (7) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All finished! Your foot should now be a tightly filled, completely shut piece, roughly 1 in (2.6 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.2 cm) tall.
Putting the penguin together
Once every piece is done, you can stitch them up and see your penguin take shape!
1. Attach the beak
At round 30, put it on the front of the body and head, right in the middle. Press the open edge flat against the body and head, then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the beak, then under the body and head beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It ought to finish up pointing straight out.
2. Attach the flippers
At round 26, put the first one on the body and head, one on each side. Keep the straight seam against the body and head, then sew back and forth along it through both pieces. It should point out and down when you're done, around 60 degrees from straight out. After that, do the same thing for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
3. Attach the feet
At round 9, put the first one on the body and head, one on each side of the front. Press the closed end of the foot against the body and head, then sew around where they meet, and pull the yarn tight so no gap is left. It should point straight out when you're done. Next, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Sew the cheeks
With light pink yarn on the body and head, around round 29, one on each side of the front. How: 2 short stitches side by side make one cheek.
5. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
Extra: the fish
Your penguin seems a bit hungry, so how about making it a cute blue fish buddy? You crochet it separately after the penguin is finished, and the penguin is done without it.
Fish body
Worked in sky blue.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x3 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | sc 3, (sc, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc, inc) x3 | (24) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-7 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Time for the eyes! You'll want to insert the safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, on the smoother side (that's the face, the small step where the rounds begin belongs at the back). Before you snap the washers on the inside, take a look from farther away: after they click, they won't come off.
Check: What you want is an open cup, roughly 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) deep, with 24 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 8 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: If you follow this, you should end up with a stuffed shape that's around 1.7 in (4.4 cm) wide and 1 in (2.6 cm) tall, and you'll have 18 stitches left for the opening.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 9 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 10 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your fish body is now a firmly stuffed piece, fully closed, and it should be about 1.6 in (4 cm) wide and 1.4 in (3.5 cm) tall.
Fish tail
Worked in blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
Check: What you want is something like an open cup, around 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.8 cm) deep, with 12 stitches around the rim.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc in each st around | (12) |
Note: Flatten the opening so the stitches from both layers match up. Work across through both layers, 6 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), this seam is where you'll sew the fish tail on.
Check: All set! Now your fish tail ought to be a flat double layer, roughly 1.1 in (2.7 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) long (pressed flat, not stuffed), with a straight seam at the end plus a long yarn tail.
Fish top fin
Worked in blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (9) |
Note: Flatten the opening and line up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 4 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to close it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew on the fish top fin.
Check: All set! The top fin on your fish is now a flat double layer, roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long and 0.8 in (2 cm) wide, pressed flat, not stuffed, with a long yarn tail and a straight seam at the end.
Fish side fin
Worked in blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! The side fin for your fish is now a flat circle, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Fish side fin (other side)
Worked in blue.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! The other side fin for your fish should be a flat circle now, around 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide, with a long yarn tail.
Putting the fish together
1. Attach the fish tail
Put it on the toy's right side, on the fish body, at round 6. Take the fish tail's starting end (the spot with the magic ring) and hold it up against the fish body. Sew around the place where they meet, back and forth, then tug the yarn tight so no gap shows. It should point straight out when you're done.
2. Attach the fish top fin
Put it centered right on top of the fish body, on that last round, 10. Keep the straight seam against the fish body, then sew along it through both pieces, back and forth. When you're done, it should point straight out.
3. Attach the fish side fin
Put it on the fish body at round 3, at the front, just a bit to the toy's left. Lay the flat fish side fin flat against the fish body, then sew around its edge with the long tail, catching the fish body underneath with each stitch. It'll curve to follow the fish body, that's what you want.
4. Attach the fish side fin (other side)
Put the flat fish side fin (the other side) flat onto the fish body, at round 3, in the middle of the back. Using the long tail, sew around its edge, and with each stitch catch the fish body underneath. It's going to curve along the fish body, that's just what you want.
5. Sew the fish eye shine
Using white yarn on the fish body, near round 6, at the front, a bit toward the toy's left. Here's how: one small stitch over the top of each eye, slightly to its outer side, the eye shines.
6. Sew the fish eye shine (other side)
With white yarn on the fish body, around round 6, at the back, a little to the toy's left. How: one small stitch over the top of each eye, a little to its outer side, the eye shines.
7. Sew the fish smile
With navy yarn on the fish body, around round 5, at the front, a little to the toy's left. How: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches along, then catch the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to make a curve.
8. Sew the fish smile (other side)
With navy yarn on the fish body, around round 5, at the back, a little to the toy's left. How: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches along, then catch the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to make a curve.
9. Finish the fish
Hide the tails on the fish the same way you did on the toy. It isn't sewn on, it's its own little piece, so it never pulls the toy out of shape. Tuck it into the toy's arms or hands, or stand it right beside it, the way you like it best.
All done!
You made it! Your chubby penguin is done and all set for snuggles, and you really ought to feel proud of yourself.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
How is the penguin's white face made?
The white face is two round patches plus an oval belly, worked flat and sewn on as you go, right before the safety eyes go in. Then the eyes go through the face patches, so they help hold them down too.
Does the pattern include the little fish?
Sure. The blue fish is a little separate piece, with a tail, a top fin, two side fins, safety eyes and a stitched smile. It's not sewn onto the penguin, so it can sit next to it or be tucked under a flipper.
How are the flippers made?
Every flipper is a little black tube, filled softly. You press the open end flat, then crochet it closed in a straight seam. Sew it along that seam onto each side of the body, with the flipper pointing out and down.
How big is the finished penguin?
In DK (light worsted) yarn, with a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, the penguin ends up around 7 in (17 cm) tall. Use thicker yarn and a bigger hook, and you get a bigger toy; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
Using DK (light worsted) cotton and a 3.5 mm (US E-4) hook, in 7 colors: white, black, orange, sky blue, blue, light pink, navy. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, any yarn works.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's labeled Intermediate: you'll be fine if you've already made a toy or two. Each round still lists its stitch count, and the checkpoints let you see how every piece should look.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
