Hi there! You're going to crochet a plump tiny dragon, complete with horns, wings, and a line of bright spikes. Haven't ever crocheted? That's totally okay, we'll take it slow and have fun with each stitch along the way.
At a glance
| Skill level | Advanced |
| Finished size | about 6 in (15 cm) tall |
| Yarn | fingering (4-ply) cotton |
| Hook | 2.5 mm |
| Colors | Cream, Dark green, Orange, Black, Pink, Tan |
| Pieces | eye patch x2, body and head (one piece), snout, belly plate, hind leg x2, sole pad x2, front leg (arm) x2, tail, horn x2, back spike x9, front crest spike, small crest spike x2, tail spike x7, wing x2, wing membrane x2 |
What you'll need
Yarn
fingering (4-ply): yarn weight 1, super fine
- Cream: about 16 yd (15 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Dark green: about 126 yd (115 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Orange: about 27 yd (25 m), 1 ball, 1.75 oz / 186 yd (50 g / 170 m)
- Black: a small scrap
- Pink: a small scrap
- Tan: a small scrap
Tools and notions
- 2.5 mm crochet hook: for fingering (4-ply) cotton yarn
- 15 mm black safety eyes: 1
- Polyester toy stuffing: a couple of big handfuls
- Yarn needle (big eye, blunt tip)
- 1 stitch marker: A scrap of yarn or a paperclip will do as well.
- Scissors
Size and gauge
The dragon ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall using this yarn and a 2.5 mm hook: roughly 27 sc and 30 rounds per 4 in (10 cm). Gauge doesn't really matter: a different yarn or hook just makes it a different size.
Abbreviations (US terms)
| Rnd | round, worked in a continuous spiral: don't join, move the stitch marker up each round |
| Row | worked back and forth: turn at the end of each row |
| sc | single crochet |
| inc | increase: 2 sc in the same stitch |
| dec | decrease: sc 2 stitches together (the invisible decrease looks neatest) |
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| ( ) x6 | repeat what's in brackets 6 times |
| (12) | the stitches you have at the end of the round |
If you're just learning them, the crochet abbreviations page walks you through how to make each one.
Good to know
- Work your stitches tight, or the stuffing will peek out. Notice holes? Switch to a smaller hook.
- Work in a spiral, and at the beginning of every round, move your stitch marker up.
- When you're going to sew a piece on, keep a long tail on it.
- Safety eyes and small parts can be a choking hazard for children under 3. For little ones, embroider the eyes instead.
Techniques in this pattern
Just starting out with one of these? Every tutorial walks you through it, step by step, with photos.
- Magic ring: how the round pieces start
- Invisible decrease: smooth shaping without gaps
- Safety eyes: where they go and how they lock
- Sewing the pieces together: neat seams that hide
- Reading the pattern: rounds, repeats and stitch counts
Rather follow pictures? Make the dragon in the app.
Crochet Pirate guides you through this pattern, step by step: a photo at each checkpoint, a round counter, and a quick video for every stitch it calls for.
Dragon crochet pattern
Work every section one after another, and at the close of each round count your stitches: the figure in brackets tells you how many you ought to have.
Eye patch (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x4 | (16) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge neat, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing. Put it to one side: it gets joined to the body and head (one piece) as you work, right before the eyes go in.
Check: All set! Your eye patch is now a flat circle that measures about 0.7 in (1.9 cm) across, plus a long yarn tail.
Body and head (one piece)
Worked in dark green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 3, inc) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 4, inc) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 10 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
Check: Your circle needs to come out flat, roughly 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide, and the edge should have 60 stitches in it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-17 | sc in each st around | (60) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnds 19-20 | sc in each st around | (54) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnds 22-23 | sc in each st around | (48) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnds 25-26 | sc in each st around | (42) |
| Rnd 27 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnds 28-29 | sc in each st around | (36) |
| Rnd 30 | (sc 5, inc) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 31 | (sc 6, inc) x6 | (48) |
Check: What you want is an open cup shape, roughly 2.8 in (7.1 cm) across and 2 in (5 cm) deep, and the edge should have 48 stitches around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 32 | (sc 7, inc) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 33 | (sc 8, inc) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 34 | (sc 9, inc) x6 | (66) |
| Rnds 35-40 | sc in each st around | (66) |
Note: Eye time, put the face on first. Grab the eye patches you made before. On round 38, pin the eye patches, one on each side of the front. Push each safety eye through the eye patch and into the body and head (one piece) between round 39 and round 40. Take a look from far away, then snap the backs on inside: once they click, they stay forever. While you can still reach inside, sew around the edge of each eye patch with its long tail.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 41 | sc in each st around | (66) |
| Rnd 42 | (sc 9, dec) x6 | (60) |
| Rnd 43 | (sc 8, dec) x6 | (54) |
| Rnd 44 | (sc 7, dec) x6 | (48) |
| Rnd 45 | (sc 6, dec) x6 | (42) |
| Rnd 46 | (sc 5, dec) x6 | (36) |
| Rnd 47 | (sc 4, dec) x6 | (30) |
| Rnd 48 | (sc 3, dec) x6 | (24) |
Note: Push the filling in now, while the opening is still wide enough. Grab little tufts, start by tucking them into the far end, and keep at it until it feels solid and bouncy. Add a bit more before the final round.
Check: Yours should come out like a stuffed piece, around 3.1 in (8 cm) wide and 4.9 in (12.4 cm) tall, leaving an opening of 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 49 | (sc 2, dec) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 50 | (sc, dec) x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 51 | dec x6 | (6) |
Note: When you're done, snip the yarn and leave a tail about the length of your hand. Put it on the yarn needle, pass it through the front loop of every one of the last stitches, then pull it tight, just like a drawstring bag, the hole closes up. If this piece will be sewn on, keep a long tail; if not, tuck it inside.
Check: All set! Your head and body, one piece, should now be fully closed and firmly stuffed, measuring around 5.5 in (13.7 cm) tall and 2.9 in (7.4 cm) wide.
Snout
Worked in dark green.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. That little chain is the spine of your oval, you'll work all the way around it.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 3, 3 sc in skipped ch | (12) |
| Rnd 2 | inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2 | (18) |
| Rnd 3 | sc, inc, sc 3, (sc, inc) x3, sc 3, (sc, inc) x2 | (24) |
Check: What you should end up with is a little flat oval, and around its edge there will be 24 stitches.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-6 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch, then snip the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the snout on. Push the stuffing to the tip with the back of your hook, and stuff it gently.
Check: All set! Your snout is now an open piece, roughly 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Belly plate
Worked in cream.
Note: Ch 9. Make a slip knot, then chain 9. You work this piece flat: go back and forth along the chain in rows, turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 8 | (8) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc | (10) |
Check: What you want is a flat trapezoid, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 10 stitches across the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 3-10 | ch 1, turn, sc 10 | (10) |
Check: Yours needs to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall and about 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide, with 10 stitches across the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 11-12 | ch 1, turn, sc 10 | (10) |
| Row 13 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec | (8) |
| Rows 14-20 | ch 1, turn, sc 8 | (8) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All right! Now your belly plate ought to be a flat trapezoid, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 2.6 in (6.7 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail left on it.
Hind leg (make 2)
Worked in dark green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x6 | (24) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across, with 24 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 5-9 | sc in each st around | (24) |
Check: Your piece should look like an open cup, roughly 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) deep, with 24 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 10 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 11 | (sc 7, inc) x3 | (27) |
| Rnd 12 | sc in each st around | (27) |
| Rnd 13 | (sc 8, inc) x3 | (30) |
| Rnd 14 | sc in each st around | (30) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the hind leg on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! At this point your hind leg should measure roughly 1.5 in (3.9 cm) long and 1.6 in (4.1 cm) wide, an open piece, plus a long tail of yarn.
Sole pad (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch to make the edge smooth, then cut the yarn and leave a long tail (around 12 in / 30 cm) for sewing.
Check: All set! Your sole pad ought to be a flat circle now, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, plus a long yarn tail.
Front leg (arm) (make 2)
Worked in dark green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | inc x6 | (12) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x6 | (18) |
Check: What you want is a flat circle, roughly 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide, with 18 stitches around the outside.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 4-7 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 7, dec) x2 | (16) |
| Rnds 9-10 | sc in each st around | (16) |
Check: Yours should end up like an open cup, around 0.8 in (2.1 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) deep, with 16 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 11-13 | sc in each st around | (16) |
| Rnd 14 | (sc 6, dec) x2 | (14) |
| Rnds 15-17 | sc in each st around | (14) |
Note: Fill it just a little, leave the last part by the opening empty so it sits flat. Flatten the opening, matching up the stitches from both layers. Work across through both layers, 7 sc, one in each pair of stitches, to shut it with a straight seam. Leave a long tail when you cut the yarn (around 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use this seam to sew the front leg (arm) on.
Check: All set! Your front leg (arm) is now a closed piece, roughly 0.9 in (2.4 cm) wide and 2.1 in (5.4 cm) long, with a straight seam across the end and a long yarn tail.
Tail
Worked in dark green.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 6 sc in magic ring | (6) |
| Rnd 2 | sc in each st around | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc, inc) x3 | (9) |
| Rnds 4-5 | sc in each st around | (9) |
| Rnd 6 | (sc 2, inc) x3 | (12) |
| Rnds 7-8 | sc in each st around | (12) |
| Rnd 9 | (sc 3, inc) x3 | (15) |
| Rnds 10-11 | sc in each st around | (15) |
| Rnd 12 | (sc 4, inc) x3 | (18) |
| Rnds 13-14 | sc in each st around | (18) |
| Rnd 15 | (sc 5, inc) x3 | (21) |
Check: Your piece ought to come out like an open cup, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) across and 1.7 in (4.4 cm) deep, having 21 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnds 16-17 | sc in each st around | (21) |
| Rnd 18 | (sc 6, inc) x3 | (24) |
| Rnds 19-20 | sc in each st around | (24) |
| Rnd 21 | (sc 7, inc) x3 | (27) |
| Rnds 22-23 | sc in each st around | (27) |
| Rnd 24 | (sc 8, inc) x3 | (30) |
| Rnds 25-28 | sc in each st around | (30) |
Note: Slip stitch into the following stitch. Then, leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and cut the yarn. You'll use it to sew the tail on. With the back of your hook, push the stuffing to the end and stuff it softly.
Check: All set! Now your tail should be an open piece, roughly 1.6 in (4.1 cm) wide and 3.7 in (9.4 cm) long, with a long yarn tail.
Horn (make 2)
Worked in cream.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
Check: Your circle should come out flat, roughly 0.3 in (0.7 cm) wide, and have 6 stitches around its edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 3 | sc in each st around | (6) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 5 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Check: Your piece needs to look like an open cup that's roughly 0.4 in (0.9 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 6 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 7 | (sc 4, inc) x2 | (12) |
| Rnd 8 | (sc 5, inc) x2 | (14) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch, then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (about 12 in / 30 cm), you'll use it to sew the horn on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! Your horn is now an open piece, roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) long and about 0.6 in (1.6 cm) wide, and you should have a long yarn tail.
Back spike (make 9)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 4, inc) x2 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), and you'll use it to sew the back spike on. Stuff it softly, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All set! Now your back spike should be an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long and about 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide, with a long tail of yarn.
Front crest spike
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
| Rnd 4 | (sc 3, inc) x2 | (10) |
| Rnd 5 | (sc 4, inc) x2 | (12) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, about 12 in (30 cm), and you'll use it to sew the front crest spike on. Push the stuffing to the end with the back of your hook, stuffing it softly.
Check: All right! Now your front crest spike ought to be an open piece, roughly 0.6 in (1.4 cm) wide and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Small crest spike (make 2)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that's roughly 0.4 in (0.9 cm) wide and 0.4 in (0.9 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Slip stitch into the next stitch. Then cut your yarn, leaving a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), for sewing the little crest spike on. Stuff it gently, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All right! Your small crest spike is now an open piece, roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, and it has a long yarn tail.
Tail spike (make 7)
Worked in orange.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 1 | 4 sc in magic ring | (4) |
| Rnd 2 | (sc, inc) x2 | (6) |
| Rnd 3 | (sc 2, inc) x2 | (8) |
Check: What you want is an open cup that's roughly 0.4 in (0.9 cm) wide and 0.4 in (0.9 cm) deep, with 8 stitches around the edge.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rnd 4 | sc in each st around | (8) |
Note: Put a slip stitch in the next stitch. Then cut the yarn, but leave a long tail, around 12 in (30 cm), since you'll use it to sew the tail spike on. Stuff it gently, using the back of your hook to push the stuffing down to the end.
Check: All right! At this point, your tail spike needs to be an open piece that measures roughly 0.4 in (1.1 cm) wide and 0.4 in (1.1 cm) long, plus a long yarn tail.
Wing (make 2)
Worked in dark green.
Note: Ch 5. Make a slip knot, then chain 5. This piece is flat, so you crochet back and forth along that chain in rows, turning at the end of each row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 4 | (4) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 2, inc | (6) |
Check: What you want is a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.9 in (2.2 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 6 stitches in the final row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, sc 6 | (6) |
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 4, inc | (8) |
| Row 5 | ch 1, turn, sc 8 | (8) |
| Row 6 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 6, inc | (10) |
| Row 7 | ch 1, turn, sc 10 | (10) |
Check: What you want is a flat trapezoid, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) tall, with 10 stitches across the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 8-11 | ch 1, turn, sc 10 | (10) |
| Row 12 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec | (8) |
| Row 13 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec | (6) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your wing should be a flat trapezoid now, roughly 1.5 in (3.7 cm) wide and 1.7 in (4.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail still attached.
Wing membrane (make 2)
Worked in orange.
Note: Ch 4. Start with a slip knot, then chain 4. You work this piece flat, going back and forth along the chain in rows, and turn at the end of every row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 | sc 3 | (3) |
| Row 2 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc, inc | (5) |
Check: What you want is a flat trapezoid, roughly 0.7 in (1.9 cm) wide and 0.3 in (0.7 cm) tall, with 5 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Row 3 | ch 1, turn, sc 5 | (5) |
| Row 4 | ch 1, turn, inc, sc 3, inc | (7) |
| Row 5 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
Check: Yours should come out as a flat triangle, around 1 in (2.6 cm) wide and 0.7 in (1.7 cm) tall, with 7 stitches in the last row.
| Round | Instructions | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| Rows 6-9 | ch 1, turn, sc 7 | (7) |
| Row 10 | ch 1, turn, dec, sc 3, dec | (5) |
Note: Snip the yarn, leaving a long tail, roughly 12 in (30 cm), for sewing. Then pull it through the last loop.
Check: All set! Your wing membrane ought to be a flat triangle now, roughly 1 in (2.6 cm) wide and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall, with a long yarn tail.
Putting the dragon together
Since every part is done, just breathe easy and we'll join your dragon piece by piece.
1. Attach the snout
At round 35, put it on the body and head (one piece), centered at the front. Lay the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece), then pin it around the whole way. With the long tail, stitch around the entire edge: beneath one stitch of the snout, then beneath the body and head (one piece) right beside that. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. When you're done, it should point straight out.
2. Attach the belly plate
Put it on the body and head (one piece), at round 19, in the middle of the front. Lay the flat belly plate flat on the body and head (one piece), then use the long tail to sew around its edge, grabbing the body and head (one piece) underneath with each stitch. It'll curve along the body and head (one piece), that's just what you want.
3. Attach the sole pads
Put the first sole pad right on the starting end of the hind leg (round 1), centered. Lay the flat sole pad flat against the hind leg, then use the long tail to sew around its edge, catching the hind leg underneath with each stitch. It'll curve to follow the hind leg, that's just what you want. After that, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
4. Attach the hind legs
Put the first one at round 13 on the body and head (one piece), one on each side. Keep the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece), then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, sew around the whole edge: under one stitch of the hind leg, then under the body and head (one piece) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a little last stuffing. It should end up lying along it, pointing forwards. Next, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
5. Attach the front leg (arm)s
At round 25, put the first one on the body and head (one piece), one on each side of the front. Keep the straight seam against the body and head (one piece), then sew back and forth along it through both pieces. It should lie along it, pointing down. Next, do the same for the other one on the other side, but mirrored.
6. Attach the tail spikes
You put them on the tail at round 5, lined up in a row down the back center: from round 5 to round 25, one every 3.3 rounds. First pin them all down so the spacing stays even. Then, for each spike: press the open edge flat on the tail and pin it around the whole way. With the long tail, stitch all around the edge: under one stitch of the tail spike, then under the tail right beside it. Right before the gap shuts, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. When it's done, it should stick straight out.
7. Attach the tail
Place it on the body and head (one piece) at round 14, at the back, a little to the toy's left. Hold the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece) and pin it all round. Using the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the tail, then under the body and head (one piece) right next to it. Add a last bit of stuffing just before the gap closes. It should end up pointing straight out.
8. Attach the horns
At round 44, put the first one on the body and head (one piece), one on each side. Press the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece), then pin it all the way around. With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under a stitch of the horn, then under the body and head (one piece) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a final bit of stuffing. It should point out and up when you're done, about 25 degrees from straight out. Next, do the same for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
9. Attach the back spikes
At round 19, they go onto the body and head (one piece), in a row along it, at the back, in the middle: from round 19 to round 50, one every 3.9 rounds. Pin them all first, so the gaps come out even. Then for each one: pin it all round, holding the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece). With the long tail, sew all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the back spike, then under the body and head (one piece) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should end up pointing straight out.
10. Attach the front crest spike
At round 49, put it on the body and head (one piece), centered at the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece). With the long tail, stitch around the whole edge: under one stitch of the front crest spike, then under the body and head (one piece) right beside it. Right before the gap closes, tuck in a final bit of stuffing. It should finish pointing straight out.
11. Attach the small crest spikes
At round 48, put the first one on the body and head (one piece), one on each side of the front. Pin it all around, keeping the open edge flat against the body and head (one piece). With the long tail, stitch all the way around the edge: under one stitch of the small crest spike, then under the body and head (one piece) right beside it. Just before the gap closes, add a last bit of stuffing. It should point straight out when done. Then mirror it and do the same for the other one on the other side.
12. Attach the wing membranes
Put the first one on the wing, near its row 8. Lay the flat wing membrane flat onto the wing, then stitch around its edge using the long tail, and with each stitch catch the wing underneath. It'll curve along the wing, that's exactly what you want. After that, repeat for the second one on the opposite side, mirrored.
13. Attach the wings
At round 23, put the first one on the body and head (one piece), one on each side, toward the back. Keep the wing's first row (the chain edge) flat against the body and head (one piece) so the rest sticks out. Sew just along that edge, back and forth, to make it stay firm. When you're done, it should point out and toward the toy's left, around 40 degrees from straight out. Then repeat for the other one on the other side, mirrored.
14. Sew the eyebrows
With black yarn on the body and head (one piece), near round 43, one on each side of the front. How: little stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
15. Sew the cheeks
Using pink yarn on the body and head (one piece), about round 35, put one on each side of the front. Here's how: 2 short stitches side by side make one cheek.
16. Sew the nostrils
Using black yarn on the snout, near round 2, one on each side of the front. How to do it: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
17. Sew the mouth
With black yarn on the snout, around round 3, at the back, in the middle. How: come up at one corner, go down 3 stitches along, then catch the middle of that long stitch and pull it down one round to make a curve.
18. Sew the middle toe
Using cream yarn, on the back leg, near round 4, at the front, slightly to the toy's left. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
19. Sew the inner toe
Using cream yarn, on the back leg, near round 4, at the front and in the center. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other, all over those same 2 stitches, until it looks good and plump.
20. Sew the outer toe
Using cream yarn, on the left side of the toy, on the hind leg around round 4. Here's how: work 4 or 5 stitches stacked on top of each other over those same 2 stitches until it looks nice and plump.
21. Sew the belly segment line 1
Using tan yarn on the belly plate, near round 4, on the circle. How: tiny stitches, each just one stitch long, one right after the other.
22. Sew the belly segment line 2
With tan yarn on the belly plate, around round 8, on the circle. How: small stitches, each one stitch long, one after another.
23. Sew the belly segment line 3
Using tan yarn on the belly plate, near round 12, on the circle. Here's how: little stitches, each just one stitch long, right after the other.
24. Sew the belly segment line 4
Using tan yarn on the belly plate, near round 16, on the circle. How to: little stitches, each just one stitch long, one right after the other.
25. Sew the wing rib
Around round 5, on the circle, use dark green yarn on the wing membrane. How: one little stitch at a time, working up the rounds, a single stitch each round.
26. Hide the tails
For every loose tail: thread it on the needle, poke it into the toy and out somewhere else, give it a little tug, and snip it close. The end disappears inside. All done!
All done!
Your own dragon is done, you did it! Give it a huge squeeze, and feel proud of each stitch you worked.
Finished one? Show it to #crochetpirate. We would love to see it.
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Questions about this pattern
Is this crochet dragon hard to make?
This is an Advanced pattern, since it has so many pieces: head and body make one piece, then you sew on horns, nine back spikes, a crest, seven tail spikes, two wings with their membranes, plus legs and sole pads. Single crochet, increases, and decreases are the stitches used, so it mostly just takes patience, and there's a picture for each piece and sewing step.
How big is the crochet dragon?
About 6 in (15 cm) tall sitting, in fingering (4-ply) cotton on a 2.5 mm hook. A thicker yarn and a bigger hook make a bigger dragon; the rounds stay the same.
How big is the finished dragon?
The dragon ends up around 6 in (15 cm) tall when you use fingering (4-ply) yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. If you grab a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, the toy gets bigger; the rounds don't change.
What yarn and hook do I need?
Use fingering (4-ply) cotton plus a 2.5 mm hook, in 6 colors: cream, dark green, orange, black, pink, tan. If you change your hook size up or down to keep the stitches tight, then any yarn will work.
Is this pattern good for beginners?
It's marked Advanced: lots of pieces and careful assembly. Take it one piece at a time, every round has its stitch count and a photo to check against.
Can I sell what I make?
Sure, you can sell the toys you make using this pattern, and it's nice if you give a shout-out to Crochet Pirate. But please don't share or sell the pattern itself, just send folks to this page instead.
Copyright 2026 Crochet Pirate. This pattern is free for personal use.
